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Routes in G3

Great Fact, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guitar Hero S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malmsteen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Guitar Wants to Kill Your Momma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sheehan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Mac S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 5/06
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: MJM on Sep 12, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This may be closer to .12-

Begin the climb moving up and then right along a hand and then fingery crack to awkward moves to the first clip or straight up past the crack on good but harder moves for a better full value to clip 1.

Crimp and finesse your way up on smaller fingery holds with some tricky hard feet to a stance at clip 4.

Move slighty left and then up on a fairly good up-ward right trending rail to a few cruxy and then really reachy holds to a rest stance near clip 6.

Go pretty much straight up on good holds but the climbing may be a bit taxing after your previous run.

A final crux before the anchors awaits you.

Location

It is the left route on the main wall.

Protection

12 clips to anchors.

Photos

Mort
  5.12a/b
Mort  
  5.12a/b
Sustained! Should clean up nicely. Felt like 12b on the onsight attempt and may well be. If you figure out the trick to the anchor, it feels like the most brilliant 5.9 climbing ever! Sep 24, 2012