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Imaginary Voyage Formation
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Imaginary Voyage 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Long and Richard Harrison, 1977
Page Views: 6,815
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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The Roof Move on Imaginary Voyage.

Description 

You are made to respect this route early, as you have to crawl to the base, located in an alcove. The exposure starts here, with the alcove 30 feet above the talus, and the valley spread out a few hundred feet below.

A stiff layback starts out the route, keep pulling until you feel the opposite wall at your back. Continue to the handrail, traverse into the light, and contemplate the move over the roof. The exposure is thrilling at this point, enjoy it. Pull the move, clipping the bolts, and clamber to the top.

Descend via a chimmney to the back (Wild Gravity) of the formation.

Protection 

Good range from finger sized to 3-4 inch, 2 bolts (1/4", 5/16").


Photos of Imaginary Voyage Slideshow Add Photo
Me trying the pure OW Roof of Imaginary Voyage ins...
Me trying the pure OW Roof of Imaginary Voyage ins...
Dave Snyder (DMS) on Imaginary Voyage '04
Dave Snyder (DMS) on Imaginary Voyage '04
Pulling across the gap on Imaginary Voyage
Pulling across the gap on Imaginary Voyage
Total leg lock monkey hang for a Christmas photo
Total leg lock monkey hang for a Christmas photo
Friend, Eric, pulling through the wide roof.  What...
Friend, Eric, pulling through the wide roof. What...
Pat Brennan, 1981, crossing back over the roof.
Pat Brennan, 1981, crossing back over the roof.
Imaginary Voyage (5.10d) as viewed from the Atlant...
BETA PHOTO: Imaginary Voyage (5.10d) as viewed from the Atlant...
The under cling step across
The under cling step across
Imaginary Voyage by Jean Luc Ponty.
Imaginary Voyage by Jean Luc Ponty.
matt through the physical crux
matt through the physical crux
The route, taken west of the formation.
BETA PHOTO: The route, taken west of the formation.

Comments on Imaginary Voyage Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2012
By Jeff Sewell
Dec 18, 2003

Back in the day, Dick Cilly TR'd the offwidth roof crack direct!!! Probably 5.HARD
By Gary Kleiger
Nov 29, 2004

We went out there Sunday to check it out. Seemed like it would be difficult/awkward to protect the roof move(s). I am wondering if people use a big cam at the lip, and if so, will a #4 camalot work or do you have to bring a #5 up there?
By Murf
Nov 29, 2004

Ran it out.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

My recollection of the gear is this - after getting a piece in the horizontal rail (near the lip) you make some cool, airy moves across to the stance with the two bolts and then finish up the wide crack above. You may want a 4" piece (a #5 Camalot will most likely be too large) after the bolts, but if you've made it that far you shouldn't need it as it gets low-angled after a move or two.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 5, 2006

Sorry Sewell... never happened. Cilley never tried it.

I tried it on toprope but it was too contrived as you bang into the walls with your head and back and whatnot. Got out a ways and gave up due to the fact you could probaby just chimney the thing. Here is a pic of the TR try.....

fishproducts.com/supertopo/nam...
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 16, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The most memorable route I've done in the monument. Five stars for the novelty value and position.

Chris's gear notes are right on the money. Largest piece we had was a #4 camalot and used that at the beginning of the roof. There's a large slung chockstone at the start of the roof about where we placed the 4, so you could potentially leave the big cams at home.
By John Dubrawski
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I placed a 4.5 after the chockstone.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Feb 26, 2008

I wonder how people protected this route back in the day (without a big cam)? Did they tie off the chockstone, or just run it out to the lip?
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
May 14, 2008

If you can get up the lieback at the start then doing the traverse without pro really shouldn't be much of an issue; the edge is quite positive. However, there's webbing hanging off the chockstone, so why not.
By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 18, 2009

I guess this is a bit more updated beta, but I definitely didn't see a threaded chockstone, much less any chockstone at all. FYI.
By John Long
Jul 19, 2011

The exciting thing on the FA was that we hadn't top roped the thing first and didn't know it it would go or how hard the lip was going to be. So that made it tricky traversing out there with no pro wondering what if anything I might get in out there. That fact that the lower crack is the crux was not imaginable on the FA, the upper b it looked so hard. Go figure . . .
By Brian Treanor
Dec 8, 2011

Possibly my favorite 5.10 out there and--Echoing John's comments--also one of my proudest leads. When I cast off on the thing it was a true onsight. I had no beta at all, no idea about the handrail, etc. Really felt like I was going for it on something that looks way more desperate than it is. I too was shocked to find the first 10 feet are the crux...
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a total circus trick hoot of a climb. I do it every time I visit Jtree for the novelty and to scare the hell out of whomever I am with. Once under the route looking up everyone I have taken refuses to lead it (the first time) even though the crux is in the first 10 feet (you can't see the hand rail so assume you will be offwidthing the roof). Anyone who has not done this route really needs to get on it - totally safe and good protection with unbelievable position. At the final roof you can even get leg jams and hang upside down for a hero shot if you want.