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Routes in Imaginary Voyage Formation

Black Plastic Streetwalker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Imaginary Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lessons from Laeger (aka White Knuckles) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: M. Lechlinski, R. Walling, J. May and the Manx
Page Views: 996 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fine route climbs up the center of the impressive face around and left from Imaginary Voyage and just left of a bolted route on the arete to the right (Lessons From Laeger 5.10b).

The climb offers steep, fun and positive climbing between hidden gear placements making for a guaranteed exciting time. Despite it's somewhat serious nature this is an excellent lead for those solid at the grade as the hard moves are always near a piece.

Protection

pro to 1.5", some larger cams to 3" for the belay

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
mhagny: Look at the pics... The start is where the slung knob is in the photo of Lechlinski on lead. There is no route further right of BPS as you are right on the brink while doing the route. Look at the chalk in the picture... you grab those holds from the ground to start then head up and right. It is a bit bouldery to get going.

The route description here on MP is totally wrong and needs to be fixed. Nov 25, 2017
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Ok, I finally hoofed it out and up there to check out just what is going on.

For sure, the route on the right arete is Black Plastic Streetwalker. About 20 feet to the LEFT of BPS is the route we always thought was Lessons From Laeger. BPS has been retrobolted as outlined in this thread. Easy mistake to make as the guidebook from BITD had the wrong route lines in place for these routes. Looking at the BPS I'm saying Kevin did a fine job with his version of the FA. I've posted a pic above showing the route and the bolt locations.

Whew, glad all that is cleared up, now go do it! It is a great and now well protected route!

No anchors on top, so you can sit in a horizontal wide crack or bring a few 1.5" to 3" cams for the various summit cracks.

EDIT: Chris: maybe you can clean up the description etc to reflect the actual route and the location, grade, etc. Thanks! Sep 7, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
On the FA, Lechlinski used a slung knob at the start and zero bolts on the pitch. It started right on the edge of the face, and moved up and right. The original rating was 5.9, and the name comes from all the fine ladies we would see while on freak tours in Hollywood. I think besides me, Banny Root and the Manx were there for the FA. Oct 5, 2004
mhagny  
Thanks to Mr Laeger for sorting this out. Now that we know the next route L of Imaginary Voyage is White Knuckles aka Lessons from Laeger, I have questions about Black Plastic Street Walker -- as in, where the heck is the start?? Going directly up the face is at least 11a or 11b. I'm assuming that the route either starts by using the first bolt of Lessons from Laeger, then following the weakness up and left to join the thin crack, *or* a person starts off too the left in the wide flaring crack and then joins this weakness. Anyone know? Nov 25, 2017
Here are my notes as written back then.

98. White Knuckles 5.10C Herb Laeger, Dennis Knuckles Jan 24 1987
This route climbs the steep dark face on excellent rock past two bolts just left of Imaginary Voyage. (I drilled the bolts) Aug 24, 2016
J Smith
5.10c
J Smith  
5.10c
The 4 bolts are still intact. You can supplement with small - medium gear in horizontal cracks which are hard to see from the ground. May 6, 2012
i guess i should pay more attention.

when i headed out to the arete i had no idea i was on mike route. bummer, i would not have drilled if i knew. mike was and is one of my heroes ! that said if he did climb straight up the arete as i did OS and on lead he is a bad man.

help me out here guys, i dont pay these sites much attention. did i bolt mikes route ? if so i better make a phone call and russ get your tools out.

i think i put those bolts in around 1994-95

kevin daniels Jan 3, 2011
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
I'll go out and eyeball the routes again, but Black Plastic Streewalker (BPS) and Lessons From Laeger (LFL) are two separate routes in my mind. BPS climbs the middle of the seemingly "blank" face, and it's that very fact which makes it such a cool route.

LFL takes the face/arete right of BPS, and Kevin Daniels, who did the FA, would never bolt a pre-existing, documented route.

Go back and check again, I think the angle of the pic from the FA may be throwing you off.

Oh, and if this is 5.9+, then so is Clean and Jerk and Rubicon...talk about a sandbag! Dec 5, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Was up there yesterday. After talking to Russ and looking at the Lechlinski FA pic, it appears to me that the "4 bolt route to the right" is not another route but actually a retro-bolt of BPS. There really isn't any further right to go from BPS without straddling the arete, and the FA pic is exactly the line where the bolts have appeared. The first bolt is clippable from blocks on the ledge and located just above the slung knob/horn visible in the FA pic. Second bolt is out near where he is standing in the pic. All 4 bolts are intact as of 12/5/06. Dec 5, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The bolted route to the right is called "Lessons From Laeger" (5.10b) FA: K. Daniels et al and has (had?) 4 bolts

My recollection of the climb (BPS) was to climb more or less straight-up the face. What's amazing is that just when you need it there's a hold and/or a gear placement. Excellent route for those comfortable at the grade. Jun 2, 2003
Great route name! I tried to find the route in 1997, but wasn't sure where on the face the route starts, left side or right side. The middle seemed kind of blank. In 2000, there was a new bolted route on the right side of the face that was probably 5.10, and actually a pretty nice route. I heard it's been chopped but they left the first bolt(?), which may protect the initial moves of Black Plastic Streetwalker? Any body have more details? May 30, 2003