Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: M. Lechlinski, R. Walling, J. May and the Manx
Page Views: 1,137 total · 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from Russ Walling and 1 other
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first route to the left of Imaginary Voyage (before the crawl-thru), which follows 4 bolts near the arete (eventually you roll onto the arete).  Retrobolted. The original line (graded 5.9) starts in the middle of the face, and slings a knob, before heading considerably to the right.  The new bolted version starts low and to the right, getting some exposure on funky bouldery moves (easier if you're shorter) before heading up.

Note that Miramontes and other guidebooks have Black Plastic Streetwalker switched with Lessons from Laeger.  Lessons from Laeger starts farther left, over near the wide crack.

Protection

4 bolts + small cams.  Sling a horn or use gear as allowed, depending on your choice of start.

Photos

Great route name! I tried to find the route in 1997, but wasn't sure where on the face the route starts, left side or right side. The middle seemed kind of blank. In 2000, there was a new bolted route on the right side of the face that was probably 5.10, and actually a pretty nice route. I heard it's been chopped but they left the first bolt(?), which may protect the initial moves of Black Plastic Streetwalker? Any body have more details? May 30, 2003
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
On the FA, Lechlinski used a slung knob at the start and zero bolts on the pitch. It started right on the edge of the face, and moved up and right. The original rating was 5.9, and the name comes from all the fine ladies we would see while on freak tours in Hollywood. I think besides me, Banny Root and the Manx were there for the FA. Oct 5, 2004
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Was up there yesterday. After talking to Russ and looking at the Lechlinski FA pic, it appears to me that the "4 bolt route to the right" is not another route but actually a retro-bolt of BPS. There really isn't any further right to go from BPS without straddling the arete, and the FA pic is exactly the line where the bolts have appeared. The first bolt is clippable from blocks on the ledge and located just above the slung knob/horn visible in the FA pic. Second bolt is out near where he is standing in the pic. All 4 bolts are intact as of 12/5/06. Dec 5, 2006
i guess i should pay more attention.

when i headed out to the arete i had no idea i was on mike route. bummer, i would not have drilled if i knew. mike was and is one of my heroes ! that said if he did climb straight up the arete as i did OS and on lead he is a bad man.

help me out here guys, i dont pay these sites much attention. did i bolt mikes route ? if so i better make a phone call and russ get your tools out.

i think i put those bolts in around 1994-95

kevin daniels Jan 3, 2011
J Smith
5.10c
J Smith  
5.10c
The 4 bolts are still intact. You can supplement with small - medium gear in horizontal cracks which are hard to see from the ground. May 6, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Ok, I finally hoofed it out and up there to check out just what is going on.

For sure, the route on the right arete is Black Plastic Streetwalker. About 20 feet to the LEFT of BPS is the route we always thought was Lessons From Laeger. BPS has been retrobolted as outlined in this thread. Easy mistake to make as the guidebook from BITD had the wrong route lines in place for these routes. Looking at the BPS I'm saying Kevin did a fine job with his version of the FA. I've posted a pic above showing the route and the bolt locations.

Whew, glad all that is cleared up, now go do it! It is a great and now well protected route!

No anchors on top, so you can sit in a horizontal wide crack or bring a few 1.5" to 3" cams for the various summit cracks.

EDIT: Chris: maybe you can clean up the description etc to reflect the actual route and the location, grade, etc. Thanks! Sep 7, 2013
Here are my notes as written back then.

98. White Knuckles 5.10C Herb Laeger, Dennis Knuckles Jan 24 1987
This route climbs the steep dark face on excellent rock past two bolts just left of Imaginary Voyage. (I drilled the bolts) Aug 24, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
mhagny: Look at the pics... The start is where the slung knob is in the photo of Lechlinski on lead. There is no route further right of BPS as you are right on the brink while doing the route. Look at the chalk in the picture... you grab those holds from the ground to start then head up and right. It is a bit bouldery to get going.

The route description here on MP is totally wrong and needs to be fixed. Nov 25, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
OK, moving left from Imaginary Voyage, the route near the edge with 4 bolts is BPS. We did a variation of this: instead of going past the knob in the middle of the face, we did some funky moves down low to traverse out over the abyss, then move up along the arete.

And then Lessons from Laeger / White Knuckles is even farther left (L of BPS), near or in the dihedral crack on the L side? Dec 6, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
Assuming we're all in agreement on the location of BPS, with the retrobolting, there's no need for an 'R' rating. Not even PG13. Dec 6, 2018