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Hobbit Book 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond and Gordon Webster, 1965
Page Views: 14,489
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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Josh Byford on P4

Description 

Excellent rock, and varied climbing make this a nice casual outing. Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral. This dihedral is obvious when looking at the crag from the road as the crescent shaped crack splitting the dome, sort of right-center with a smooth-ish face to it's left.

Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.

Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.

Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.

Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.

Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.

Location 

Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


Photos of Hobbit Book Slideshow Add Photo
Arin <em>en route</em>, Hobbit Book, 7/27/05.
Arin en route, Hobbit Book, 7/27/05.
Jeff Arliss on P3
Jeff Arliss on P3
On the summit with Half Dome in the distance.
On the summit with Half Dome in the distance.
A close-up shot of the Hobbit Book from the road.
A close-up shot of the Hobbit Book from the road.
Hobbit Book P2, P3, and P4
Hobbit Book P2, P3, and P4
Pitch 3 5.7 R
Pitch 3 5.7 R
Hobbit Book
Hobbit Book
Hobbit Book showing approach ledges past Mariuolumne Dome - North Wall and descent.
BETA PHOTO: Hobbit Book showing approach ledges past Mariuolum...
Randy coming back to the crack on P3
Randy coming back to the crack on P3
Clint Locks, Hobbit Book
Clint Locks, Hobbit Book
leading off the last pitch. Hidden lake only seen on the climb.
leading off the last pitch. Hidden lake only seen ...
Clint Locks and Arin Trook atop the Hobbit Book. Fairview Dome is just left of center in the background (7/31/05).
Clint Locks and Arin Trook atop the Hobbit Book. F...
Randy below the roof traverse on P4
Randy below the roof traverse on P4
Tricia and Josh on P4
Tricia and Josh on P4
Having Fun on Hobbit Book
Having Fun on Hobbit Book

Comments on Hobbit Book Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2014
By Blitzo
Sep 27, 2006

A really fun route! Fantastic views!
By Chrystal Logan
Aug 3, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Awesome views!! Beware of hornet nests located around the large boulders at the base of the dome! I was stung on 7/25/07 and it hurt like hell!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 9, 2008

A good way to do this route if you're confident on 5.7 terrain: Lead up the corner and build a belay right before the traverse left onto the golden plates. This requires maybe ~60' of simuling w/ a 60m rope. Then lead up the next pitch to the top, which requires maybe 70' of simuling.
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Very cool route to end the day on. I wouldn't be so into the hike if your a 5.10 climber. Climb OZ into hobbit book. If your 5.8 climber, the hike would be complimented by the epic view of Tenaya lake and half dome. Not to mention fairview, and Eichorn and pretty much everything else in the meadows!


Approach from OZ: walk off the top of OZ across a small flat area (excellent place to have a lunch!), up a mini talus field to the base of a 4th class traverse. The traverse is mellow, there is one spot that looks unsafe but is protected by holding onto a nice sized pine tree, follow a trenched out path to a large belay ledge.

P1. There are a few options, easy 4th class crack on left is good, committing face move to the right to get up to the belay for pitch one.

P2. nice crack dihedral climbing

P3. Really cool face that climbs on big jugs and nice lock offs.

P4. Traverse left on easy holds to the start of a short crack that leads to the top. Complimented by very nice face holds and feet for the crack. The face climbs great next to the crack and you can place sufficient bomber pieces in the crack as you go. Tops out to a large bath tub/ trench at the top you could easily sit in and belay your follower up.

Walk off the the left. Go off the back side of the dome and then head left where there is a option to go right down a gully or left. Head left! Then at the bottom of the back of the dome on your left in the pines is a very easy 4th class gully that walks down and connects into the OZ trail. Once you are off the slabs and back in front of the climbing area stay close to the base that heads towards oz to avoid quite a bit of bush whacking and marshy muddy areas.
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Should be rated PG13, not R. On the third pitch, you can sling plates every 20ft after the bolt until you move back into the corner. All the climbing is secure and the patina is simply amazing!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Aug 3, 2011

The plate hauling on pitch 3 is fairly inflated at 5.7, but I suppose grades take a back seat to such an aesthetic section of climbing that just happens to have a 120' fall potential. I think I might actually been nervous if I'd been stopping to tie off plates, but to each their own. The gems of this climb is that 3rd pitch as well as the view at the top, so be sure to talk up the dangerous R section to your partner, wait for their face to turn ashen, and then graciously offer to lead it like the true rock martyr you are.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 31, 2013

I suppose one could sling a few plates on the third pitch, but it really didn't look to me like the slings would stay put unless you fell from exactly the right point. At any rate, the holds on this pitch are very, very positive, and the 5.7 rating is rather inflated, just like Colonel Mustard said.

I would call this an excellent easy adventure climb for anyone wanting a taste of that sort of thing. The approach is just long and involved enough to take this climb out of the "roadside crag" category, the views at the top are great, and the walk off is very pleasant. Do start early if you don't like waiting in line, though.
By Simon W
Aug 3, 2013

I have heard there is a 5.8 route which can be climbed to get to this, avoiding the approach.. Is that true? Anyone know the climb?
By Simon W
Aug 14, 2013

Honestly, I haven't climbed it or done the approach so I don't know the relative benefit/risk associated with each option. FWIW, the person who told me about the so called 5.8 climb which circumvents the approach is hardly a reputable source.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 15, 2013

Simon, your friend was probably talking about Crystal Meth (5.8) or Euro Trash (10c or 5.8 A0) both on Drug Dome. Check out the Supertopo book for more beta.
By Willoughby
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

People talk about Pitch 3 being reachy. I'm 5'8" and never felt it was a problem. I did manage to tie-off three plates along the way,using regular shoulder-length runners, but I'm not sure they would have done much.
By flynn
Nov 15, 2013

The approach hike is just pure fun. At one point, you're crossing a meadow absolutely festooned with colorful little flowers. It could be in Rivendell.

Third pitch reachy? Um, I'm 5' 4" and didn't have any problems.
By Simon W
Jul 10, 2014

Thanks for the reply Todd. Finally did the climb via OZ and was not disappointed! Some friends have done Crystal Meth etc, and said they were alright, but OZ is something else. Highly recommend for those who are comfortable with the pro getting off the ground on that route.

Re: runout on the 3rd pitch of hobbit. Like everyone on here says the climbing isn't hard, but I would not recommend this for someone who hasn't climbed easy terrain with 20, 30, 40' runouts first. It's a long way to get back to the corner, so if you're not used to that, be warned. Didn't bother slinging plates and not sure slung plates would stay slung for long once you move above em. Wouldn't want to fall on one.