Excellent rock, and varied climbing make this a nice casual outing. Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral. This dihedral is obvious when looking at the crag from the road as the crescent shaped crack splitting the dome, sort of right-center with a smooth-ish face to it's left.
Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.
Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.
Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.
Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.
Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral.
Standard trad rack.
Sep 27, 2006
A really fun route! Fantastic views!
|By Chrystal Logan|
Aug 3, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
Awesome views!! Beware of hornet nests located around the large boulders at the base of the dome! I was stung on 7/25/07 and it hurt like hell!
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 9, 2008
A good way to do this route if you're confident on 5.7 terrain: Lead up the corner and build a belay right before the traverse left onto the golden plates. This requires maybe ~60' of simuling w/ a 60m rope. Then lead up the next pitch to the top, which requires maybe 70' of simuling.
|By trying hard|
From: East side Sierra
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
Very cool route to end the day on. I wouldn't be so into the hike if your a 5.10 climber. Climb OZ into hobbit book. If your 5.8 climber, the hike would be complimented by the epic view of Tenaya lake and half dome. Not to mention fairview, and Eichorn and pretty much everything else in the meadows!
Approach from OZ: walk off the top of OZ across a small flat area (excellent place to have a lunch!), up a mini talus field to the base of a 4th class traverse. The traverse is mellow, there is one spot that looks unsafe but is protected by holding onto a nice sized pine tree, follow a trenched out path to a large belay ledge.
P1. There are a few options, easy 4th class crack on left is good, committing face move to the right to get up to the belay for pitch one.
P2. nice crack dihedral climbing
P3. Really cool face that climbs on big jugs and nice lock offs.
P4. Traverse left on easy holds to the start of a short crack that leads to the top. Complimented by very nice face holds and feet for the crack. The face climbs great next to the crack and you can place sufficient bomber pieces in the crack as you go. Tops out to a large bath tub/ trench at the top you could easily sit in and belay your follower up.
Walk off the the left. Go off the back side of the dome and then head left where there is a option to go right down a gully or left. Head left! Then at the bottom of the back of the dome on your left in the pines is a very easy 4th class gully that walks down and connects into the OZ trail. Once you are off the slabs and back in front of the climbing area stay close to the base that heads towards oz to avoid quite a bit of bush whacking and marshy muddy areas.
|By Jeff Gicklhorn|
From: A Climbing Mecca Near You!
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Should be rated PG13, not R. On the third pitch, you can sling plates every 20ft after the bolt until you move back into the corner. All the climbing is secure and the patina is simply amazing!
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Aug 3, 2011
The plate hauling on pitch 3 is fairly inflated at 5.7, but I suppose grades take a back seat to such an aesthetic section of climbing that just happens to have a 120' fall potential. I think I might actually been nervous if I'd been stopping to tie off plates, but to each their own. The gems of this climb is that 3rd pitch as well as the view at the top, so be sure to talk up the dangerous R section to your partner, wait for their face to turn ashen, and then graciously offer to lead it like the true rock martyr you are.
|By mark felber|
From: Frisco, CO,USA
Jul 31, 2013
I suppose one could sling a few plates on the third pitch, but it really didn't look to me like the slings would stay put unless you fell from exactly the right point. At any rate, the holds on this pitch are very, very positive, and the 5.7 rating is rather inflated, just like Colonel Mustard said.
I would call this an excellent easy adventure climb for anyone wanting a taste of that sort of thing. The approach is just long and involved enough to take this climb out of the "roadside crag" category, the views at the top are great, and the walk off is very pleasant. Do start early if you don't like waiting in line, though.
|By Simon W|
Aug 3, 2013
I have heard there is a 5.8 route which can be climbed to get to this, avoiding the approach.. Is that true? Anyone know the climb?
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 6, 2013
Why would you want to do that and miss all that fun? Its almost the best part of the adventure. Can you imagine the rock fall danger climbing up under someone doing the regular approach?
|By Simon W|
Aug 14, 2013
Honestly, I haven't climbed it or done the approach so I don't know the relative benefit/risk associated with each option. FWIW, the person who told me about the so called 5.8 climb which circumvents the approach is hardly a reputable source.
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 15, 2013
Simon, your friend was probably talking about Crystal Meth (5.8) or Euro Trash (10c or 5.8 A0) both on Drug Dome. Check out the Supertopo book for more beta.
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
People talk about Pitch 3 being reachy. I'm 5'8" and never felt it was a problem. I did manage to tie-off three plates along the way,using regular shoulder-length runners, but I'm not sure they would have done much.
Nov 15, 2013
The approach hike is just pure fun. At one point, you're crossing a meadow absolutely festooned with colorful little flowers. It could be in Rivendell.
Third pitch reachy? Um, I'm 5' 4" and didn't have any problems.