Edge of Time Arete 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | mid summer to early fall |
| Submitted By: | rocky233 on Jul 20, 2006 |
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crux pitch. mid 10 jamming thru a bulge
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Description Edge of Time follows the northeast arete and is long and sustained. It offers classic alpine climbing in a superb setting. A major issue in climbing this route is crossing the Kings River. If you go too early the river may not be crossable.
New Trip Report and New Improved Topo
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Citadel ... Edge of Time Arete
Location This route is on The Citadel's north face and follows the left most arete (northeast arete).
Protection No bolts, No pitons. Trad gear from small to 3.5"
climbing off the snow
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americannordwand.com
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the first crux. not really but you'll need some st...
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up high
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gettin scrappy...
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flowers, splitter granite, blue skies....welcome t...
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first river crossing on pink slimed logs (not reco...
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the Citadel
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approach/descent down into LeConte Canyon
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bergshrund behind which we tunneled to reach the s...
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looking down P1-3
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Mike leading the "10a" crack on P4
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BETA PHOTO: looking down P4 with other potential crack options...
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P7
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BETA PHOTO: P10, from the large sloping belay ledge step down ...
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BETA PHOTO: approach/descent
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| Comments on Edge of Time Arete |
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 28, 2006
| Thanks for sharing the link - lots of great info and pictures, plus a downloadable PDF topo. |
By Reuben Shelton
May 31, 2009
| First ascent by Dave Nettle and Jim Howle in the early 90's, impressively done in a push to and from Tahoe. |
By fossana
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
| This is not your typical High Sierra route. Many of the pitches are sustained for the grade. Given the lack of traffic the route is heavily vegetated with a large amount of lichen.
approach. We went in early Sep 2011 (a big snow year). The river crossings weren't too bad. I didn't feel like hunting for an optimal dry crossing so the best option for me was wading. We were able to access the route without crampons/ice axe by scrambling up the bergshrund.
descent. We took the gully directly from the summit that points directly toward Ladder Lake, contouring climber's right when it got difficult. With some down-climbing we only had to do one 100 ft rap.
NOTES ON THE ART MESSIER TOPO:
p4. The 10a crack marked here is harder than 10a (harder than the crux IMHO). Not sure if the original intent on the FA was to climb the thin crack in the dihedral. There's also a thin hands (for me) crack on the arete.
p5. Not really a pitch. It's ~30 ft of dihedral leading up to the roof.
p9. The pro was marginal getting up to the roof, but you can protect the thin traverse under the roof with a purple TCU.
p10. This is in the written description, but confusing from the topo. From the large sloping belay ledge step down and traverse right to reach the 5.9/9 crack.
As noted expect the rope lengths to be off. Otherwise the topo was quite helpful. |
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Mar 1, 2012
| I don't know if it's just my computer, but the link doesn't open anymore. It's on my to-do list for the summer so I could really use that PDF! Thanks! |
By fossana
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 9, 2012
| I can't get to it either. Let me dig around and see if I saved a copy.
update:
Sorry, I checked my old laptop and backups. I didn't save the TR or topo. Also tried pulling up a cached copy from Google with no luck.
update 2:
There is a topo in Moynier & Fiddler at least in the 1993 version. |
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