Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: August 2019 Ben Ditto & Katie Lambert
Page Views: 1,067 total · 37/month
Shared By: Katiebird Lambert on Sep 7, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Wild Kingdom-
Start from the second large ledge system with bushes about 200 feet off the ground at the base of the wall.
P1 - 5.11aR. 200ft. Excellent rock
From the bushy ledge head up and slightly left through cracks to a small bulge/overlap approx 5.8.
Pull over the bulge onto balancy face climbing heading up and right to the thin and slick dihedral - approx 5.9.
Climb into the dihedral for several thin and technical moves (about 25 ft) until you can face traverse up and left to an alcove under a roof - approx 5.11a
P2 - 5.10c 115ft. Excellent rock
Climb up the dihedral through the flaring roof. Continue up the face pinch crack to another small roof to a stance up and right in the dihedral.
P3 5.10b/c 100ft Excellent Rock
Face traverse out left to the third crack. Pull more awkward, pinchy crack moves for 100 feet to belay at a stance below the third large tiered roof.
P4 5.9 about 120ft. Continue straight above climbing double cracks of the dihedral ending at a stance below a right facing dihedral and flake  Excellent rock
P5 5.11aR 120 ft. From the belay climb up the dihedral about 10 feet - small weird gear. From here traverse hard right out across the face on a delicate foot traverse - passing a slingable knob (I did not sling due to rope drag) up into flakes and crack system out a small overlapping rooflet. Belay at a stance where the best gear is found. Mostly good rock.
P6 5.11aR 100ft . Mostly good rock, beware the blocks out right. From the belay climb up an underclinging layback into the dihedral. Before the rock starts to get too crispy in the corner traverse out right just below your last piece, eventually climbing into flakes and large blocks and ending at a stance around the other side of an arete.
P7 5.9R 160ft Climb up from the arete sticking to the best rock out on the face trending rightward to an alcove. Climb up and left out of the alcove to a decent stance with good gear. Mixed rock, generally good.
P8 5.8 80ft Decent rock. Contiue climbing up face features to a belay ledge just below a splitter dihedral with a big bush half way up it. This is the base a small green pillar feature. If the bush weren’t in the way the dihedral would continue to the top of the pillar. As it is the bush is too dense to pass through.
P9 5.9 R or 5.11+ R 100ft.  Some very loose rock. Continue left on the ledge climbing over some bigger bushes and into the left side of the pillar. Many blocks and poor rock guard the entrance into this crack. Climb up to a small grassy/bushy ledge. From here you can continue up the left side of the pillar (which has many loose blocks inside a wide crack taking much care to not place gear, knock anything loose or fall) over it’s top and down to a stance on the right side of the pillar just below a nice finger crack dihedral.  Or you can climb a very thin and hard to protect offset seam which angles up and right to the top right-side of the pillar (5.11+).
P10 5.11 140ft. One of the best pitches - Good rock and technical. From the belay climb up steeper flakes into the dihedral. Excellent rock once established in the corner. Stay straight up in this passing a right leaning undercling. Continue up to a short traverse out right to a good ledge.
P11-16 stays around 5.6-5.9. There are many ways you can go but we stuck to the steeper terrain opting for the best looking rock. There is a lot of loose stuff up the last 500ft so choose carefully.

Once on the East Summit we descended it’s backside to the saddle with the West Summit, we simul climbed from the saddle onto the front side of the West Summit. Very loose. From the summit of the West Summit we descended via the west ridge to Ladder Lake and down a rocky canyon back to the Ladder Creek basin.

Location

First major dihedral system with tiered white roofs to the right of Edge of Time. Look for two ledges with trees and route starts at the second edge. 

Protection

Natural pro

Photos

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