Uptown Toodeloo 

FA:  Olaf Mitchell and Peter Prandoni Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12- [details] Length:  2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade III Views: 149 page views Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Dec 17, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Uptown Toodeloo

Description 

Uptown Toodeloo is the third in the trilogy of hard crack climbs on the Poe Buttress. Although given a harder rating than both Mississippi Half Step and Edge of Fright, it is in some ways the easiest route on the formation do to the excellent rests and short cruxes.
Uptown Toodeloo follows the cracks on the left edge of the Poe Buttress. The first pitch starts with a bulging 5.8 fist crack leading to a low angle dirty handcrack and chimney, belaying on a large ledge. A better alternative is to start with Off your Rocker or the first pitch of the Half Step.
Pitch two is the business and starts up a 5.10 hand and finger crack on the far left of the buttress directly right of a chimney. This crack becomes a flake at the top and ends at a small ledge on the arete. Reach right around the corner, clip the first bolt, and make some technical moves on small crimps (crux) to reach a jug on the arete. Clip your second bolt, mantle, and work your way right and up an overhanging fingercrack. Steep liebacks and jams take you past the difficulties, and a short OW brings you to the top.

Protection 

Medium stoppers and cams to 3" with a few extra TCUs. A double rope rappels gets you down, or make 3 single rope rappels down Off your Rocker.