Pitch 2 on first attempt. Before the snow storm. ...
Description
Although we did this a couple years ago it has only seen a couple of ascents. Brent and I established this route ground up in the winter of 1998. We aided the second pitch and were forced off the wall after 5 pitches, due to a blizzard during the night spent in our portaledge. I later rapped the headwall at the top to scope a line and clean off some loose blocks (I did not place any bolts on rap as stated in the 2003 AAJ, this was placed on lead). Eventually in May of 2002 Brent and I returned to free the entire climb. Parts of the climb are shared with variations of the Dalke Route.
The journey begins to the left of an overhang/cave with a slab above it at the lowest point of the Main buttress of Cathedral Wall. Here can be found a small tree against the wall which marks the starting point.
Pitch 1: Pull a difficult move behind the small tree to gain access to the slab. Traverse right and head up to a tree in the middle of the slab (the pitches only pro). From the tree head up and slightly left to the base of an overhanging crack system that splits the roof above. (5.6R)
Pitch 2: Jump onto the crack system and get ready for a pump. Some fixed gear here and there. Awsome climbing pulling the lip. Don't mistake this pitch for the overhanging corner system to the right. This pitch goes straight out the middle of the roof to another tree above.(5.11)
Pitch 3: Start up the wall to the right of the tree. Meander up and slightly left following any protection possibilities you can. (5.8R) Eventually you will end 60m out at a bolt below a white roof.
Pitch 4: Head into the white roof and climb out it's left side and up a crack system to the top of a small pillar right on the prow of the buttress.(5.8+)
Pitch 5: Avoid the temtation to head right onto easy terrain. Instead go directly left 5-10ft. and then straight up (no pro) eventually gaining a ramp system that takes you left. When the ramp levels off and cuts accross the entire wall climb above it into the headwall. Follow a non descript crack into the middle of the wall. At its end, just as things get steep, your forced to climb out right and up to the big ledge. Fight the rope drag to the back of the ledge and a bolt.(5.9)
Pitch 6: Climb onto the upper wall over or around a hanging block to access a left leaning ramp. At the top of the ramp lieback straight out the left side of the large roof gaining the main headwall. Then travel up right, then up, untill a ledge takes you farther right, to a bolt and the belay. (5.10+)
Pitch 7: Now that you've gained the best view in RMNP (other than the Diamond), get ready for some fun. Go up and left to a large flake system that takes you back right to a left leaning overhanging hand crack that finishes off the climb. (5.10)
Enjoy!
Protection
Standard Free rack with extra tcu's, micronuts, and a couple lowe balls are useful. 60M rope.
By justin dubois From: Estes Park Dec 26, 2004 rating: 5.12a
This route is one of the BEST routes Ive done in the park. The buttress is huge and steep, the pitches are interesting and zesty, and the belays are comfortable.it's really one of the longest routes around, at about 1000'. These boys really found a gem, and it was done in great style. The 5th or so pitch that busts out right onto nebulous and steep 5.10 with no gear, is one of the raddest in RMNP.Watch out for the crux 2nd pitch though, Its sick hard. On our first attempt, I climbed the corner to right that Ryan describes. After we realized our mistake, we went straight back there and Jason Seaver flashed the real crux.
Pitch 6: Lieback up a left facing flake, right off the belay, heading towards a large roof directly above. Climb up to the roof and out the left side, then angle right, following discontinous cracks, to the small ledge with a bolt. 110', 5.10+ R/X, with some dubious rock quality. Don't go out the right side of the roof. My partner attempted this, after much deliberation over Ryan's route description for this pitch, and found extremely bad rock, no gear and difficult climbing. Overall, good route, bold effort by Ryan and Brent (especially since this was primarily put up in winter), but be prepared for big runouts and some marginal rock near the top.
Sorry! Should have been more specific about heading out the left of the roof. This pitch protects a little better with a set of Lowe Balls (or at least they let me think it was safer!). Thought the second pitch was 11a huh?
By brent armstrong From: Closer to RR than the Strip Aug 10, 2009
Years later now, and such a fond memory. While hanging with Ryan this Summer we wondered if this would get more traffic with a softer grade (say 5.10. I was obviously blinded by the FA, and way too much booze when grading the roof), and more pictures of us smiling, instead of a snowed in portaledge.
A wonderful freeclimb.
I hope this route doesn't become a ghost, it deserves better.
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