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Routes in Cathedral Wall

Altar Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Big Easy, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackstar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dalke Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flying Nun T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jagged Arch T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kor Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lever Action T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pew, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Running With The Bulls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sublime Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Tourist Tragedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tourist Tragedy Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Winchester T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,310 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a good route in a great setting, but I was disappointed that the it didn't break left onto the red rock at the top.

The top pitch is blocky with big, classic features in an open, chimney-like system.

Location

The start took some time to find, the wall looms large when your standing in front of it. Instead, find the route on the wall at a distance before arriving.

Protection

I seem to remember thin gear at the beginning, but it gets better higher up. Bring Tricams.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I wish this page had more useful route information on it! Oct 28, 2014
Ben Collett  
 
This route is a great engaging adventure. It would be on par with the Dalke Route if it saw more traffic. One should definitely be prepared for pretty significant runouts on good rock. Generally speaking, following one's intuition works out pretty well. We climbed the route as follows:

1) From the start, climb into the steep, arching flake/crack. As the crack goes horizontal, pull through the overlap, and arrange a nest of small gear about 10 feet above the overlap before heading right around the arete and climbing rather runout terrain to a belay at a fixed nut below and left of a the grassy ledge mentioned in Rossiter's guide, 130ft, 10- R.

2) Climb to the ledge, and then follow faint dihedrals up and slightly left ending at the bolts on Sublime Buttress. There is a spicy move about 20 feet above the ledge, but the rest of the pitch has decent pro, 160ft, 5.9 R.

3) Step right, and climb a faint dihedral for about 100 feet until a ledge system is reached. At this point, climb up and right into the base of a large, left-facing dihedral with red rock on its right side (it is worth looking for this feature before leaving the ground), 170ft, 5.8 R/X.

4) Follow the dihedral until it gets totally blank at which point, one can traverse left and arrange a belay about 25ft left of the dihedral in a nice exposed position, 160ft, 5.9.

5) Climb unprotected terrain up and back right into the dihedral, and follow it to the base of a steep flake/handcrack where the climb merges with the Dalke Route. Climb this feature over a bulge, and then traverse right on a wildly exposed face traverse around the corner to a small ledge and fire up to the top of the steep part of the wall, 170ft, 5.9 R.

6) Climb to the top of the wall. Jul 2, 2018

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