Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches |
FA: | Roger Dalke, Larry Dalke, circa 1965 |
Page Views: | 5,221 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Feb 4, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
From the Denver Post, the Cathedral Wall is CLOSED beginning February 15, 2022. Reopening is expected July 31st if needed. Click the following link for more details: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Route-finding is vague, protection dicey in places (in fact nearly everywhere) but this is a great line up a proud buttress; actually one of the tallest and best-looking buttresses in the whole RMNP. In addition, this route has a fairly short approach, (you can watch all the bumblies heading up for the Petit Grepon) and best of all a solid southern exposure; you may end up lost and frightened and unable to retreat, but at least you'll be nice and warm.
P1. The first pitch is obvious and easy, up a chimney/crack/slab to a large ledge.
P2-3. The next two pitches are pretty indeterminate but basically take you into the obvious, huge, shallow dihedral/groove way up and right. Check out Rossiter's High Peaks book for more details. The climbing on pitch two, as I recall is pretty runout, vertical 5.8 mostly on great jugs (but worryingly above the large belay ledge), requiring some care with navigation (lest you end up on much harder ground). This is like the best of the Petit Grepon climbing, but steeper (and definitely no crowds). Once in the long dihedral, you may expect that there'd be lots of yummy gear in the crack in the back, but alas this is not the case. . . . Luckily the stone is immmaculate. Anyway, follow the dihedral to the top of the huge pillar. Even here the gear is not so easy to find.
P4. From here, various ways tackle the imposing headwall. Apparently one can go straight up. Good luck. I led out to the right, until I gained a ledge about thirty feet away. Very exposed here! A coffin-sized/shaped block sits on this small ledge.
P5. From here, a nice but short crack leads to some loose-looking blocks. Angle rightwards to avoid the blocks (I recall a very welcome #1.5 Friend somewhere here in a slot), and wander upwards (butt-clenching exposure!) upwards to finally pull onto the shoulder.
P6. One more pitch, easy, from here to the real summit.
Six looooong pitches, continuously absorbing, with a serious feel; one of the coolest routes I've done in the Park.
P1. The first pitch is obvious and easy, up a chimney/crack/slab to a large ledge.
P2-3. The next two pitches are pretty indeterminate but basically take you into the obvious, huge, shallow dihedral/groove way up and right. Check out Rossiter's High Peaks book for more details. The climbing on pitch two, as I recall is pretty runout, vertical 5.8 mostly on great jugs (but worryingly above the large belay ledge), requiring some care with navigation (lest you end up on much harder ground). This is like the best of the Petit Grepon climbing, but steeper (and definitely no crowds). Once in the long dihedral, you may expect that there'd be lots of yummy gear in the crack in the back, but alas this is not the case. . . . Luckily the stone is immmaculate. Anyway, follow the dihedral to the top of the huge pillar. Even here the gear is not so easy to find.
P4. From here, various ways tackle the imposing headwall. Apparently one can go straight up. Good luck. I led out to the right, until I gained a ledge about thirty feet away. Very exposed here! A coffin-sized/shaped block sits on this small ledge.
P5. From here, a nice but short crack leads to some loose-looking blocks. Angle rightwards to avoid the blocks (I recall a very welcome #1.5 Friend somewhere here in a slot), and wander upwards (butt-clenching exposure!) upwards to finally pull onto the shoulder.
P6. One more pitch, easy, from here to the real summit.
Six looooong pitches, continuously absorbing, with a serious feel; one of the coolest routes I've done in the Park.
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