Avg: 2.3 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1984|
|Page Views:||3,305 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Jun 23, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is located on the second buttress of Cathedral Wall. Approach from the Sky Pond trail, traversing across a talus slope to get just to the right of a large right-facing dihedral, located in the middle of the buttress. The descent is down the back-side and then down Andrews Glacier trail. Coming back to the base of the route is only an option if you are into punishment. So, up and over with everything. The Rossiter guide does list an optional descent as scrambling west up the Cathedral Spires ridge until it is possible to descend talus and a gully to Lake of Glass and the Sky Pond trail.
Pitch 1 - Work your way up to gain an unlikely looking crack that goes to a roof. Continue angling up to a ledge on the right. (5.9)
Pitch 2 - Climb up through some grubby trees and follow a right facing corner up to a ledge. (5.6)
Pitch 3 - Climb a ramp that goes up to the left and belay at the bottom of a right-facing dihedral. (5.4)
Pitch 4 - climb the corner and a short, steep crack to a ledge. (5.8)
Pitch 5 - This pitch is basically a scramble. Go up the ridge through a chimney and belay on a grassy ledge. (5.4)
Pitch 6 - Climb a right facing dihedral and turn a roof at the top. Continue to a belay on a ledge beneath a steep wall. (5.8)
Pitch 7 - Climb straight up the crack. The Rossiter guide says that this pitch is 5.10a, but it is a very short section of hard stuff. The crack gears up well and it is really more of a boulder problem. Definitely go for this variation. The other variation hand traverses out to the right from the crack and climbs up the face to a ledge, reportedly, 5.9.
Pitch 8 - Climb up the right side of a leaning pillar, turn a small roof, and run the rope out to spot to un-rope and rack the gear. (5.6)
Continue to scramble up the gully. Once you reach the notch, angle down to the left over talus, aiming to find the gully described in the descent for Cathedral Wall. Overall, this route is sort of loose, and not continuous in difficulty. An ascent of Cathredral Wall is definitely worth the effort, though. At least this route does not have the letter "s" attached anywhere.