This route, while in the Mounds, is actually located on a separate formation slightly to the north of the main rock. A single left leaning crack splits a rounded west-facing rock.
The bottom section goes easily with a nice juggy crack to pull up on. The top flares out and becomes difficult to protect, going from loose to cupped hand jams. The route is very short, fairly technical and moderately fun, not a good 5.8 intro climb however.
Almost a highball boulder problem, but the crux is definitely near the top so watch out!
Protection
Bottom protects well with mid-sized cams, upper flared section takes larger (#3 or #4 BD) gear. Awkward gear anchor with small cams and nuts.
By rob.calm From: Loveland, Colorado Oct 24, 2006 rating: 5.8
A good anchor can be setup on top by slinging one of the big, stable boulders with your climbing rope (or cordelette if so inclined). Near the top as the crack flares, there are good smears outside the flare for the L foot.
I wouldn't go out of my way to climb this thing. But you might as well climb it if your walking by. Sort of like Tennis shoe crack, but less sharp.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.8
Set your anchor higher up. I found great gear in a horizontal crack, I think it was large cams. From there it is a safe walk off, climber's left.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Nov 6, 2008
There is now a two-bolt anchor on top of the formation. For some reason the bolts were placed well back from the end of the climb; an extendo line of about 20 feet or so is needed to prevent rope wear. As mentioned above, large cams work perfectly to build an anchor in a more logical location.
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Nov 6, 2008 rating: 5.8
Not trying to start a flame war or anything but are these bolts really necessary? I remember getting a good large gear anchor on top with the walk off being class 3 at the most. I'm not a local or anything but have climbed at J-Tree a handful of times throughout the years. I'm all for bolts that need to be there but these seem like convenience bolts to me.
If I'm not mistaken, Eff Eight is one of the "60 Favorite Climbs." As such, this rather forgettable climb receives many more ascents than it would otherwise deserve. Still, with so many people climbing this route, it is not surprising that someone decided a bolted anchor would be "nice." Similarly, it is not surprising that the bolts are in a poor location.
As one friend of mine aptly observed, convenience anchors are rarely placed where they are truly needed or actually convenient.
They are, arguably, often an appeasement to the lowest common denominator.
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