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> McHenry's Peak
Big Mac Couloir
WI4- M5
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Joe Hladick and Scott Kimball, 1979 |
Page Views: | 10,253 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Jan 30, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route climbs a prominent couloir system on the northeast face of McHenry's Peak. If you're lucky enough to catch the face in good conditions, the climbing is reportedly somewhat moderate at M4-. However, conditions I've encountered have been a grade or so harder. The climbing tends to be more of a mixed snow and rock route without much ice. The somewhat remote location, length, and proximity to other routes (for enchaining) make this route an excellent venue for some adventure climbing.
One obvious enchainment option is to climb the West Gully of Black Lake followed by this route, or another on the same face. Another less obvious option would be to climb the Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead. The easterly descent of which would put you right at the base of this face.
Catching this route in perfect conditions may be tough. Both times I've been on the face, late January and early March have yielded tough conditions. However, the route is still very enjoyable when the cards aren't all in your favor.
One obvious enchainment option is to climb the West Gully of Black Lake followed by this route, or another on the same face. Another less obvious option would be to climb the Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead. The easterly descent of which would put you right at the base of this face.
Catching this route in perfect conditions may be tough. Both times I've been on the face, late January and early March have yielded tough conditions. However, the route is still very enjoyable when the cards aren't all in your favor.
3 Comments