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Routes in McHenry's Peak

Big Mac Couloir WI4- M4-
McHenry's Notch Couloir 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 Mod. Snow
Right Gully T WI4 M4 A1 Mod. Snow
Snow Bench (McHenry's Peak) M3 Steep Snow
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Type: Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Joe Kaelin & party
Page Views: 2,710 total · 21/month
Shared By: Eran Shileikis on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This has ~3 pitches of rock/mixed, 1 or 2 pitches of ice. Zig-zag up some mixed/snow ramps, bust left to meet up with the Big Mac Couloir at the top of the buttress, and then aid up the Headwall (A1) or escape to the right (4th class).


This route goes up the right side of the prominent buttress on the east face of McHenry's Peak.


Mixed alpine rack: (Single set of cams +/-, full set of passive gear, pitons, and ~7 ice screws and lots of long slings maybe?).


The guidebook says to climb up snow bench for a while and traverse right. TOTAL CRAP. Maybe that traverse has been done with no snow, but it looks spicy with much snow cover. Instead climb two enjoyable pitches of 5.8ish rock (hard to judge in boots) through the cliffs at the base of Right Gully. From there one can cruise.

2 pitches of rock to ice (5.8)
1 pitch of ice (200 feet)
Mellow solo for the rest (M1?)

Time for spray: Lollygagging, it took 15 hours car to car. Nov 12, 2007
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming

Some photos from an early season attempt last winter. Nov 2, 2011
Gil Weiss  
c2c linkup of West Gully and Right Gully. F'n Classic!… Feb 22, 2012

More About Right Gully