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Zowie Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Zowie

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	Green Chili T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Magic in the Middle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	One for the Red Team T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Red Face Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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GPS:	40.29177, -105.6696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Peter Holcombe on Jun 4, 2002 · Updates
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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Zowie is the towering fin of rock seen while approaching/descending from Sharkstooth. It is an impressive sight. It's very similar looking to the Petit Grepon, just smaller. It is a pinnacle eroded from Otis Peak.

Getting There

Park at Glacier Gorge Junction one mile before the Bear Lake parking lot. Take the trail to Alberta Falls, and keep going. Hike past The Loch for a mile, cross a footbridge and go right heading up towards Andrews Glacier. Once you start to leave the trees, start looking to the right and you'll see the tower. Wham is the other tower to the right. Addendum: It's now ~4 miles.

Descent

There appear to be at least 2 descents.

A. From the top, there is at least one rappel route down. From the northeast end of the top, there is a 2 bolt ~90' rappel. (~80' reaches a ledge with an exposed scramble north to the next anchor.) Note, this rappel can be challenging to pull, so consider using one rope. The second rappel off a 2 bolt anchor goes down a gully going north to the saddle. From there, snake your way down exposed 3rd class, traverse skier's right into a chimney, continue snaking down past a notch, and go to a pair of brown, Metolius rap hangers near the bottom of the descent. Rappel ~80' over a wet chimney.

B. Per John Peterson: The first rap is down the east side (right over the 5.8+ crack). Take a grassy ledge north (right as you face the summit) to an anchor that leads to the notch behind Zowie. This is hard to see from above. Both of these rap stations have good anchors. Follow the gully down until you hit a drop off near the bottom and rap one last time. It looked possible to downclimb, but it would be very exposed. This rap anchor wasn't as good as the other two.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zowie

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 26 ● One for the Red Team Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 148 ● South Face Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 39 ● Red Face Magic Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 65 ● Magic in the Middle Trad, Alpine 7 pitches