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Routes in Zowie
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Green Chili T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magic in the Middle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One for the Red Team T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Face Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Cory Fleagle/Liz Donley/Chris "Fergie" |
| Page Views: | 1,585 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Cor on Oct 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is just a brief overview/description of the climb:
P1. Head up slope to gully (not descent gully), that is capped by large chockstone. Climb prominent dihedral (right-facing) through a slot up top to a ledge belay.
P2. Continue up cracks, going up easy ledges, and corners. Continue to walkable grass ledge, and up towards the south/west face of spire. You can walk off left to descent gully from here. This pitch is long, and to make it up to the bottom of the upper face requires simulclimbing.
P3. Start up left-most dihedral (left-facing) on upper wall. Exit the dihedral up and left, toward ledge with an optional belay.
P4. Continue up the face using cracks and weaknesses. Trend up and leftward toward the arete. Pass a KB pin when you get to the arete, continue up arete to large long ledge.
P5. Go up the last part of the tower with a thin crack start, pull up to right (around small corner) up to roof with wide crack, pull out left, and finish up to summit.
Note: there are several good pitches we did that are right of this route. Some have a pin or two, and one ledge has two old 1/4" bolts. These are all fun, and about 5.9-5.10 range (I think?) none of these pitches are listed in any books that I could find....
P1. Head up slope to gully (not descent gully), that is capped by large chockstone. Climb prominent dihedral (right-facing) through a slot up top to a ledge belay.
P2. Continue up cracks, going up easy ledges, and corners. Continue to walkable grass ledge, and up towards the south/west face of spire. You can walk off left to descent gully from here. This pitch is long, and to make it up to the bottom of the upper face requires simulclimbing.
P3. Start up left-most dihedral (left-facing) on upper wall. Exit the dihedral up and left, toward ledge with an optional belay.
P4. Continue up the face using cracks and weaknesses. Trend up and leftward toward the arete. Pass a KB pin when you get to the arete, continue up arete to large long ledge.
P5. Go up the last part of the tower with a thin crack start, pull up to right (around small corner) up to roof with wide crack, pull out left, and finish up to summit.
Note: there are several good pitches we did that are right of this route. Some have a pin or two, and one ledge has two old 1/4" bolts. These are all fun, and about 5.9-5.10 range (I think?) none of these pitches are listed in any books that I could find....
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