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Will the Wolf Survive? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dane Bass and Ed Wright
Season: year round
Page Views: 13,510
Submitted By: 8jimi8 Clary on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (153)
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Joy Weber leading out into space on pitch 4 of Wil...

Description 

4 pitches, 5 rappel stations:

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.9+ Bolted layback crack; it's sharp!
P3: 5.9+ Don't stop at the extra rappel station.
P4: 5.10a Crux pitch. Step out over the void and pull to the top of razor ridge.

Make sure you look through hole in the wall and see the other side of the next canyon before you get out on the last pitch.

Location 

Half way up the canyon on the right side. The route starts next to a table-sized rock on the path.

Protection 

Bolts every 10-15 feet. 60m rope will get you up and down.


Photos of Will the Wolf Survive? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the money pitch!
the money pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Mitchell on Will the Wolf Survive. Andrew Adk...
Adam Mitchell on Will the Wolf Survive. Andrew Adk...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin finishing up pitch 4. Big thanks to the sup...
Justin finishing up pitch 4. Big thanks to the sup...
Rock Climbing Photo: KLS and I at the top of the third pitch. 4th pitch...
KLS and I at the top of the third pitch. 4th pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the 2nd pitch anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the 2nd pitch anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the top of "Will the Wolf Survive"...
Me at the top of "Will the Wolf Survive"...
Rock Climbing Photo: KLS at the top of "Will the Wolf Survive"...
KLS at the top of "Will the Wolf Survive"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Placard at the base of "Will the Wolf Survive...
Placard at the base of "Will the Wolf Survive...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the long P3.  It's a great pitch.  Pho...
Leading the long P3. It's a great pitch. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the casual P1.  Photo by Adrian Burke
Leading the casual P1. Photo by Adrian Burke
Rock Climbing Photo: The airy moves that mark the start of the stellar ...
The airy moves that mark the start of the stellar ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool window at the top of the third pitch...
Cool window at the top of the third pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Credit: Brad Hilbert Myself following up the...
Photo Credit: Brad Hilbert Myself following up the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad Parker at The 2nd belay. The second pitch is ...
Chad Parker at The 2nd belay. The second pitch is ...

Comments on Will the Wolf Survive? Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2017
By Matt Walker
Jan 31, 2007

this is a cool route and a unique location in the park. there are a few other worthwhile routes in lobo canyon - so it is worth the hike. the route is not as free of sharp vegitation as other walls - plus the rock is considerably sharper. i remember lots of fossils in the rock on this route. the last pitch is great and exposed. more of a boulder problem with exposure.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Mar 27, 2007

The first couple moves of the last pitch are stellar. The rest of the route is also very good.
By Bryan Howell
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 19, 2007

Ooooh yeah, leading that last pitch is key. One of the highlights of the park...
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jan 20, 2009

Great climb, last pitch is fun, but short. Hike to climb is longer than you think...just keep counting the bolt lines and you will eventually get to the climb.
By Terry Knowles
Sep 30, 2012

One of the nicest routes I've climbed. Fourth pitch is amazing.
By Jim Morse
From: Hannibal, MO
Dec 28, 2012

Good route overall. That last move out onto the last pitch really makes it. Took me a minute to convince myself that I was going to be able to step out and stay on...
By Andrew Mayer
Dec 24, 2014

Awesome route! A couple notes:

P1 - felt more like 5.9
P2 - stellar
P3 - the longest pitch, about 120ft, took 13 draws if I remember correctly. a little pumpy
P4 - as mentioned, the first 3 bolts are wonderfully exposed climbing. short pitch, maybe 50ft

could certainly link pitches 1 and 2

4 raps to get down: 1)summit to top of p3, 2) to rap station 1/4 up p3, 3) to p1 anchor, 4) to the ground. you MIGHT be able to do raps 1 and 2 in a single rappel with a 70m rope but it would be close.
By Ken Chase
Feb 5, 2016

did this today. p4 is stellar. the layback midway on p2 is pretty awesome too, unique climbing. you can rap in 3 on a 70m: from top to substation on p3 (ledge 30' above p3 belay), to top of p1, to ground. rope stretcher on a 70 to substation, but doable. with a 60m do it in 4 raps. linked 1+2, 3+4 on a 70m.
By Derek Strittmatter
From: Houston, Texas
Mar 28, 2016

Great route! Be sure to find the trail next to the wall on the approach and avoid the scree field. P3 had the most bolts at 14.
By M HawkMan
Dec 21, 2016

Did this route this evening.

First pitch felt a little tricky and maybe even tad bit runout in spots- same with pitch 2 about the run outs.

You will get a good view on the summit of this route of the notorious spot on the rappell for Estrellitas where everyone gets their rope stuck in the gully. Look left and you will see the palm tree with the fixed line attached to it.

All and all though this was a pretty fun route- get on it!

Oh yeah, and don't be thrown off on the third pitch by the extra rap station- keep climbing. You will know you're starting the fourth pitch because there is an awkward traverse right. and I mean AWKWARD. Haha. But still great fun.
By Jon Jones
From: Penticton, B.C.
Feb 17, 2017

A great route. P1 stiff for grade. P4 soft for grade. If you combine pitches 1 and 2 you will need 18-20 quick draws. You can also combine pitches 3 and 4 but it's best not to as this could make communication difficult. You can descend in 3 raps with one 70m rope: 1st rap, top to sub-anchor on p3; 2nd rap, sub-anchor to top of p1; 3rd rap, to ground.

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