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Lucky Pierre
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Los Lobos Wall
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Anvil, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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At the Speed of the Millzypede S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Beans by Dre S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Bad Wolf S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blacksmith, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Control Machete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ears to Hear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Cachorro (The Cub) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fish and Clips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Five Sisters, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Golden Werewolf, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Howlin' Wolf S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Red Riding Hood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lobos Trabajando S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Los Huevos del Oro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucky Pierre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Never Cry Wolf S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Palm Sex, Lies, and Lots of Tape S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Palm Snake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riddles of the Wise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Señor Natural S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shadow Am I T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sheep's Clothing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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There is no Spoon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whistle and Fish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Will the Wolf Survive? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wolf Am I T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wolf of the Deserts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zombie Wolf S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Colin Rowell, Tyler McFarlane, Guillaume Richard, Matthew Jones 2018 |
| Page Views: | 174 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Fink Fink on Mar 7, 2023 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
A newer two pitch outing on the Los Lobos wall with two pitches on tacky rock that sees little traffic.
P1 (10-, 12 bolts, 120') : Bushwhack and stem to a high first bolt, then follow the cleared path of bolts upwards on solid rock, trending slightly left to a technical crux through an overlap at half height, before angling up and right through a neat traversing hand crack feature (pumpy) to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.
P2 (10+, 8 bolts, 80') : Head straight up from the belay for several bolts in a small right-facing dihedral and clip a high bolt from an undercling. The crux boulder problem (10+/11-?) involves exiting this dihedral up onto the left-hand arete using compression moves, pinches, and small crimps with tenuous feet to a difficult clip. Several more crimpy moves see you the next bolt and easier terrain and eventually the anchor near the ridgeline. The bolting is spaced enough at the crux that it would be difficult to aid, but the fall is very clean (if a notch heady).
Descent: Rappel the route, 70m rope mandatory for the first pitch. Madden's 3rd edition guidebook mentions a directional biner on the first pitch to ease rapping, but we saw no evidence of it (Mar 2023). We made do with some bushwhacking, but it would be a good candidate for a permadraw.
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