Quarter Inch from Falling
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.9906, -113.3896 |
| FA: | Tim Toula, James Garrett, May 2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,415 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Apr 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Perfectly named, this route is a full on adventure. A Quarter Inch from Falling has the potential to be over 15 feet of flying!
This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.
P1: Climb Quartermoon or Moonshine to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.
P2: From the Quartermoon ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.
Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.
You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the Quartermoon chimney and then down climbing.



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