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Deviance (aka 5.10 roof) S 
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Deviance (aka 5.10 roof) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin Bentz, Mario Cantu
Page Views: 1,195
Submitted By: APasquel on Mar 21, 2014  with updates from Nick Bernal

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BETA PHOTO: 5.10 Roof!

Description 

The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.

Location 

Take main trail from Sex Canyon down towards the river. Continue to spur and stay right as if your going to Dead Cats. Look up and you will see roof to your right.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors. Stick clip is recommended. First bolt is high on ledge, not to mention just high off the ground, possibly 15-20' high off the ground.

Description 

The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.

Location 

Take main trail from Sex Canyon down towards the river. Continue to spur and stay right as if your going to Dead Cats. Look up and you will see roof to your right.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors. Stick clip is recommended. First bolt is high on ledge, not to mention just high off the ground, possibly 15-20' high off the ground.


Comments on Deviance (aka 5.10 roof) Add Comment
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By Russell Bangert
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is a 10d, not a 10a
By APasquel
Mar 21, 2014

This route is considered on to be located on the Sunshine Roof Wall in John Hogge's Austin Climbing Guide book.
By dholte
From: South San Francisco, CA
Nov 2, 2014

Compared to other moderate routes I've done at Reimer's, this one is excellent.
By Grant Freeman
Oct 17, 2016

I finally had the chance to climb this route and I was not disappointed! It's a fun route. If you don't have a stick clip, there is a 6th bolt below the starting ledge you can use.

I also noticed that there is another set of bolts going left of Deviance, looks like it shares the first bolt. It's not in the guide book. Does anyone know what route this is?
By Jake Cantu
Oct 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun route with really fun, juggy roof pulling. Definitely one of the best easy 10s in the park.

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