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Sideways Sandworm
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Disappearing Devil
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A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Devil May Care T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Disappearing Person T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sideways Sandworm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.5428, -109.5526 |
| FA: | Andrew Parnas, Alex Bond |
| Page Views: | 1,699 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | aparnas on Oct 9, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
How It Is
Pitch 1: Worm your way up the squeeze chimney in the corner, using ledgy holds when they are available. There is very little pro, but the climbing is secure and simple. Pop out onto a ledge and build a belay to bring your partner up. (5.8, 30ft)
Pitch 2: To the right of the obvious offwidth, squeeze into a narrow corridor between the wall and a large strangely shaped flake that tapers fantastically to a point at its top. Climb the wide hands crack hidden at the back of this corridor until you can stand on the very tip of the flake. Plug a #5 BD cam into the crack where it widens and power through to a small ledge. (5.10, 30ft)
Pitch 3: The money! Traverse left off the ledge, across the offwidth/chimney, and continue traversing left for 80ft along the very very obvious horizontal crack/seam/rail feature that leads all the way from the corner to the arête. Footholds? Who needs 'em? Note that the follower is in as much danger as the leader on this pitch, since it is completely horizontal and any fall will result in a large swing! About 6ft from the arête, bust out of the horizontal crack and move vertically up a seam with some smeary feet to a bolted belay. (5.11-, 90ft)
Note: We recommend rappelling from the end of pitch 3, as pitch 4 really just doesn't measure up to the rest of the climb in terms of safety or quality. We have rated this route based on the first three pitches.
Pitch 4: Move left around the bulgy arête, and zig-zag your way up over rounded, chossy, ledges until you can access the mud-caked corner to the left of the arête. Rope drag will almost certainly be a problem. Make funky, insecure moves (way past your last pro with some serious ledge-fall potential) up the corner, and top out on a talus slope. Try not to kick rocks down on your partner as they follow you up. (5.11-, 100ft?)
To rap from the top of pitch 4, traverse climbers right back across the talus until you are above the corner you started in. There is a bolted rap station.
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