Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Disappearing Devil

A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Devil May Care T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Disappearing Person T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Sideways Sandworm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andrew Parnas, Jojo Matson
Page Views: 407 total, 26/month
Shared By: aparnas on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.9, 120 ft) Scramble up to a small ledge to access the obvious squeeze chimney crack. Inside the squeeze chimney is a handcrack. Climb the handcrack, negotiate your way past a few large (solid) chockstones, and tunnel deeper through the chimney until you arrive at a large hidden ledge behind the cliff face.

Pitch 2 (5.11a, 110 ft) Walk left from the belay to the obvious #4 crack that continues up the portion of the pillar that is detached from the main rim cliff. Climb the crack to where the rock becomes soft and loose. Continue up past this loose band of rock to more solid climbing in a corner where two large cracks converge to create some fantastic geometry. Optional belay here to reduce rope drag. Climb the corner where the two cracks come together, either by stemming or using the offwidth crack in back. Above this, the rock becomes loose and delicate again, so dance cautiously up the next 30 feet to the summit of the pillar.

Location

Same directions for getting to Disappearing Devil. Disappearing Person is on the main cliff face almost directly across the valley from the Disappearing Devil tower.

Protection

Single rack up to BD# 0.75. Double or triple rack of BD# 1 - 4. Single or double rack of BD# 5-6. Set of large nuts for chockstones on first pitch.

70 meter rope absolutely necessary for rappels!!! Two ropes recommended. One 70 meter rope (With rope stretch!!) just barely reaches the bottoms of both pitches. Tie knots in the ends of your rope!!

Photos

0 Comments