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Routes in Disappearing Devil

A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Devil May Care T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Disappearing Person T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Sideways Sandworm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal
Page Views: 856 total, 5/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.

Protection

Two sets of cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot. One #4.5, and possibly one #5. (#4.5 is especially helpful). No nuts. The gear is is in pockets or in horizontals. Several quickdraws and maybe a half-dozen shoulder-length slings. Double ropes were used on the first ascent, and help prevent rope drag. There are two bolts on top (1/2" by 4") for the 70' rappel descent.

2014 EDIT: The Camalot sizes above are the older sizes.

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J. Hickok
  5.10 R
J. Hickok  
  5.10 R
Short but fun! Mar 8, 2012
Geoff Unger
Moab, UT
  5.10b R
Geoff Unger   Moab, UT
  5.10b R
I really enjoyed this route. We had just done the Disappearing Angel via Satan's Revenge and didn't have a larger cam. Although the climbing was much more reasonable on this tower, one number 4 camalot would have made things a little more comfortable. Instead, I used a couple of smaller cams in shallow horizontals(not ideal). Overall awesome face climbing. Dec 16, 2010
Ben Kiessel  
 
Nice lead Crusher! Brad and I climbed this last weekend and were impressed with the routes quality. We had one rope and many runners, which worked but doubles would have been nice. I could reach the holds on the crux but Brad couldn't. He had to jump to a pocket and hope it was good to make the move. Great route!
Ben Apr 28, 2008