Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal
Page Views: 1,031 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.

Protection

Two sets of cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot. One #4.5, and possibly one #5. (#4.5 is especially helpful). No nuts. The gear is is in pockets or in horizontals. Several quickdraws and maybe a half-dozen shoulder-length slings. Double ropes were used on the first ascent, and help prevent rope drag. There are two bolts on top (1/2" by 4") for the 70' rappel descent.

2014 EDIT: The Camalot sizes above are the older sizes.

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