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Devil May Care
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Disappearing Devil
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A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Devil May Care T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Disappearing Person T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sideways Sandworm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal |
| Page Views: | 1,031 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Aug 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.
Protection
Two sets of cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot. One #4.5, and possibly one #5. (#4.5 is especially helpful). No nuts. The gear is is in pockets or in horizontals. Several quickdraws and maybe a half-dozen shoulder-length slings. Double ropes were used on the first ascent, and help prevent rope drag. There are two bolts on top (1/2" by 4") for the 70' rappel descent.
2014 EDIT: The Camalot sizes above are the older sizes.
2014 EDIT: The Camalot sizes above are the older sizes.
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