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Sunshine Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 51
votes
Routes in Campground Wall
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A Pitch In Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A Pitch in Time (extension) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feelin' Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fungus The Bogey Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hiphugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Looking for a Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainy Day Dream Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sloppy Seconds T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunshine Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunshine Chimney South (AKA Rocket Pig) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Swedish Touch, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Varicose Veins S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.67754, -123.15329 |
| FA: | Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 3,793 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route is given three stars in Marc Bourdon's 2012 Squamish Select guidebook. Climb up past a cedar tree rooted at the base of the slab, then go straight up (no pro) or left around a couple trees, and back right along a crack to join the main crack at another tree. Here the mountain opens up and you have a couple of exit options. Either start at wide crack on your left and continue straight up through the chimney (no pro, awkward), or go to the back of the alcove and go up the 3-4" crack that joins the wall until it gets dirty and narrow, then belly-crawl left until you can squeeze out into the daylight, or exit right (no beta). Belay at a gear anchor with rap webbing at your feet. You'll be in an awkward fix when your second arrives.
Continue straight up, enjoying the view of the forest as you squeeze up the chimney and out the roof to the left to a bolted anchor. Alternatively, go to the right over big loose blocks, across an exposed face, and traverse right under a roof. Setup a gear belay and get the hell off this rig.
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