Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Suddaby, Peter Croft 1979
Page Views: 679 total · 5/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


A forgotten climb that was recleaned a few years back. It's not a destination climb by itself, but an enjoyable way to reach Bullethead Ledge. It is still a bit dirty, and the pine needles are a bit disconcerting along the P1 traverse... but hey, it's Squamish!

P1) Climb directly up to a tree (awkward getting onto the tree). Traverse left along the undercling crack for about 60'. Gear is available the whole way. The final moves getting to the chain anchor are the crux 5.9+

P2) Straight up the crack above the chains. Fun climbing through hand and finger cracks, and a shallow dihedral. At the top move left and then up. You'll find a chain anchor to rap (2 ropes I assume) but I belayed about 15' on Bullethead Ledge since we were continuing on. 5.9+


The climb begins about 100' left of the fixed rope up to Bullethead Ledge. You need to go down and then up along the base to find out. It can be identified by a tree about 30' off the ground and a loooong left undercling traverse leading to shiny chain anchors.


Standard rack (nuts, and doubles TCUs to #3 camalot) would be more than sufficient, but I don't remember the details.


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