Suggested Page Improvements to Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North
Replace this paragraph:
"From the North Summit: Many parties stop here and rappel off the crest (2 double length rappels on the West side). There are many rap stations that appear so bring some webbing in case the stations need new webbing."
with these two paragraphs:
Some parties stop at the notch between the two summits, and rappel down the very wide gully on the west side of the notch, straightforward with a single 60-meter rope. There are rock horns along the south side (descender's left). Might be slings/cord already in place, but safer to bring your own webbing/cord material and rappel rings.
From the North Summit: Many parties stop here and rappel off the crest. Two double-rope rappels on the West side is easiest, but many parties have done it by three or four rappels with a single 60-meter rope -- see Comments on [[the route North Ridge of Matthes Crest]]http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-ridge-of-matthes-crest-/108343012).
Some of the rappels are on natural anchors, so bring some webbing/sling/cord (and rappel rings) in case the stations need new webbing.
"From the North Summit: Many parties stop here and rappel off the crest (2 double length rappels on the West side). There are many rap stations that appear so bring some webbing in case the stations need new webbing."
with these two paragraphs:
Some parties stop at the notch between the two summits, and rappel down the very wide gully on the west side of the notch, straightforward with a single 60-meter rope. There are rock horns along the south side (descender's left). Might be slings/cord already in place, but safer to bring your own webbing/cord material and rappel rings.
From the North Summit: Many parties stop here and rappel off the crest. Two double-rope rappels on the West side is easiest, but many parties have done it by three or four rappels with a single 60-meter rope -- see Comments on [[the route North Ridge of Matthes Crest]]http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-ridge-of-matthes-crest-/108343012).
Some of the rappels are on natural anchors, so bring some webbing/sling/cord (and rappel rings) in case the stations need new webbing.
After this paragraph:
"Simply continue the travers and downclimb the next section, placing pro for the follower."
Add this sentence:
Down into the notch between the two summits, then some 5.7 moves to get up onto the (higher) North summit.
"Simply continue the travers and downclimb the next section, placing pro for the follower."
Add this sentence:
Down into the notch between the two summits, then some 5.7 moves to get up onto the (higher) North summit.