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Suggested Page Improvements to Land of the Free


Morgan Smith
Mar 20, 2016
Pitch 1: (Apache Line) 5.11b, 10 bolts, 33 m.
Pitch 2: 4th class on fixed rope up vertical terrain to another fixed rope on a 3rd class slab.
Pitch 3: 5.10a, 5 bolts, 25m. Head up a slab to a small crack. End up in the dihedral to below and left of a flaky roof.
Pitch 4: 5.10c, 4 bolts, 22m. Scary move up to a hollow flaky roof and then right up a larger crack.
Pitch 5: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 30m. Head toward the wall center on thin crimps interspersed with good holds.
Pitch 6: 5.11b, 9 bolts, 33m. Tricky, thin climbing up a nice edge.
Pitch 7: 5.11d, 8 bolts, 27m. Head up to the mini roof to a small pocket throw up to a nice crimp.
Pitch 8: 5.11b, 9 bolts, 30m. Fun traverse right to a dihedral for fantastic chimneying.
Pitch 9: 5.11c, 12 bolts, 28m. Crimpy sequence on a column feature. Head straight up and don't be confused by Prisoneros del Cielo on the right.
Pitch 10: 5.12b, 12 bolts, 20m. Hard immediately, but stick the 3rd bolt and it's basically over. Cruz up jugs to the next wall and boulder around it to the end. Enjoy the view!

A 70 meter rope works for all rappels on simul. Best to link pitches 3 and 4, just keep on your toes with the runouts!
A #1 and #2 an be brought to tame some of the runouts.
This climb is absolutely incredible sequential climbing on bomber rock with amazing exposure on the most beautiful rock in the Potrero. It's impossible to not love the upper pitches. Don't miss this one!
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