Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Terry Christenson & Valerie Ng
Page Views: 5,198 total · 34/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jan 30, 2007 with improvements by Morgan F. Smith
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is absolutely incredible sequential climbing on bomber rock with amazing exposure on the most beautiful rock in the Potrero; solid and crisp w/out being too sharp. Vaguely reminiscent of, but IMO, much better than Levitation 29. If off-vertical technical climbing heavy on the edges is your bag, you'll be close to heaven on the upper half.
It's impossible to not love the upper pitches. Don't miss this one!

P1: We started with Apache Line (11b) which is excellent, steep and a stout warmup, but still probably easier than the 11d guidebook option. ~ 10 Bolts, 35m

P2: 4th class on fixed rope up vertical terrain to another fixed rope on a 3rd class slab.

P3-5: Varieties of 5.10 slabbingon smooth rock with somewhat sparse bolting. This section gives some people the willies.
Pitch 3: (10a), 5 bolts, 25m. Head up a slab to a small crack. End up in the dihedral to below and left of a flaky roof. Can be linked with p4.
Pitch 4: (10c), 4 bolts, 22m. Hollow flaky roof and then right up a larger crack.
Pitch 5: (10d), 9 bolts, 30m. Head toward the wall center on thin crimps interspersed with good holds.

The next three pitches are one intricate, stellar face pitch after another.

Pitch 6: 5.11b, 9 bolts, 30m. Tricky, thin climbing up a nice edge.
Pitch 7: 5.11d, 8 bolts, 27m. Head up to the mini roof to a small pocket throw up to a nice crimp.
Pitch 8: 5.11b, 9 bolts, 30m. Fun traverse right to a dihedral for fantastic chimneying.
Pitch 9: 5.11c, 12 bolts, 28m. Crimpy sequence on a column feature. Head straight up and don't be confused by Prisoneros del Cielo on the right.
Pitch 10: 5.12b, 12 bolts, 20m. Hard immediately, but stick the 3rd bolt and it's basically over. Cruz up jugs to the next wall and boulder around it to the end. Enjoy the view!

P10: 12b. The final pitch is hard right off the belay and ends under a big roof. Supposed to be solid at the grade and tricky.

You should expect some loose rock, vegetation and a little dirty climbing but over all the route is pretty solid and the climbing is great.

Descent: rap the route. A 70 meter rope works for all rappels on simul. Most pitches were about 30m except where noted. I've provided the guidebook ratings which are fairly solid but by no means sandbaggy by Potrero standards, or at least compared to the Mota.

Location

Roughly 50-75 M left of Sendero in the middle of the overhanging part of the crag between "Natural Mystic" and "Freedom Fries" If you have a rest day to burn, it's worth scoping out the approach and deciding which 1st pitch option looks most appealing to you.

Protection

About 16 and a couple of long slings. A #1 and #2 can be used to tame some of the runouts. A few small nuts may come in handy.

Photos