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Routes in Sheep Rock Summit Dome
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Another Day at the Office T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Dunblazier-Bright Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Golden Fleece, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hubbel Route, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joker, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lightning Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long Way Home, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nicaraguan Princess T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Odyssey, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sheep Just Wanna Have Fun T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Sheep Rock Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sport Tour de Platte S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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To Hell 'n Back S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trad Tour de Platte T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 673 ft (204 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dave Dunblazier, Kathy Bright, Circa mid-1980s |
| Page Views: | 0 total · 0/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Aschert on Jun 6, 2026 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Although both pitches provide very good climbing as top ropes, I do not recommend leading this route until the hardware is replaced since it is protected with circa 1980s, 3/8” Star-Dryvins and 1/4" button heads with Leeper hangers.
P1 5.9X (45M) 3 bolts: It is located Two (2) routes right of “To Hell’n Back” at the first huge boulder blocking the corridor (on the North end), skirt the boulder on the left side against the wall and belay in this vicinity. Traverse onto a small arching flake to the right and clip the first bolt. PHOTO (The direct start is 5M longer and starts on the south side of Boulder No. 1.) Protected with 3/8” Star Drives that require replacement, including a two (2) bolt anchor. There is a sketchy small wire placement between B1 and B2 where the climbing gradually eases to 5.8 but still has some flakiness underfoot. Belay at two (2) bolts directly below a large pot hole with a good stance. PHOTO Expect ground fall potential if you miss any clip.
P2 5.6X (50M) 0 bolts: Follow the path of least resistance up the water streak to the “Yellow Brick Road” (30M). Continue up the black water streak to the bottom of the visor on its far left for a gear belay in a hand crack.
P3 5.6 (30M) 0 bolts: Climb straight up through the hand crack and over the visor or climb left and continue up the apron, follow the path of least resistance to a gear belay above the apron. Scramble Class I/II for 60M to the summit for a magnificent view.
Descent: Use any of the Standard “Sheep Rock” descents.
Location
Same approach as the route “To Hell’n Back” on the “Velcro Wall” at “Sheep Rock.” It is located Two (2) routes right of “To Hell’n Back” and climbs directly up the most prominent water streak to the visor. Start either from the top of the first huge boulder from the north that blocks the corridor by skirting it on the left side against the wall and belay in this vicinity or down scramble Class IV/V on the right side of the boulder and climb an extra 5M to the first bolt. PHOTO
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