Code Red

Have you ever crimped so hard you gave yourself a blood blister? It might feel like you’re going to, but don’t let that stop you from getting on this certified rig. Skin and condies are big factors for the opener, this climb gets morning shade and that’s when you want to be here. Trying to use these thin crimps and that one right hand guarding the first two bolts with sweaty tips is a fool’s errand.

The crux is right off the ground, a lesson in technique and pain tolerance, these crimps are as sharp as they get in the Red and the feet are small. Having small fingers will make that small iron slot actually feel like a hold. It is very unforgiving for even the slightest of sausage fingers. Once you gain the wave feature, a significantly more approachable boulder problem awaits, balance hard and fight to get to the well deserved no hands rest.

Get it together and tech your way to the top on the sparsely available holds hidden in the checkerboard head wall. The climbing is fun and all time, but don’t think you’re out of the weeds until clipping the final bolt.

The view from the top is incredible and the pitch is a true, hard-man’s face climb. Original grade is 12d, maybe some holds broke because this now feels every bit of 13a.

Once you get to WABW, go left and it is the climb on the tombstone left of the obvious crack, Adventures of the Leper Nurse. You’ll know you’re at the right climb when you question whether or not there are any actual holds on the bottom of the climb.

9 bolts