Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Don McGlone, Matt Tackett, 2005
Page Views: 425 total · 5/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Great technical line with only a few moves at the grade.

Start near a tree at a dip in the trail. Make a long move to get established on the iron horizontals. Clip the first bolt and make the easy moves to the last bolt before the roof. Make a difficult traverse to get established in the groove directly below the roof (crux). Make a tricky reach to pull the roof and enjoy the easy slab to the top.

Location

From the approach trail head left for a few hundred feet until you drop down into a dip. Right as the trail begins to go up again near a tree the route starts. Obvious less than vertical face with several bolts leading to a roof left of the bolt line.

Protection

11 bolts to a two bolt anchor. A few long draws for the two bolts before and after the roof. 60m to rappel.

Photos

highneed
  5.10d
highneed  
  5.10d
First 4 bolts are way easier than they look. From the 4th to the last bolt below the roof is pretty much continuous (10+) with the crux of the route being a hard to decipher sequence right before you get to the clip stance for the bolt. Sep 7, 2016