En Compañía de María

Second time getting on this route thinking it was Amptrax. It’s almost believable until you hit pitch 4 and have to start ticking holds for the crux sequence you thought was supposed to be 5.10a. Kinda chossy at points but has gotten a lot cleaner. Expect to pull out some rock loose though 

Pitch 1) 20m 5.9: Start at first belay for Amptrax at the end of the 4th class scramble. Route starts to to the right go up loose rock to first two bolts or slightly harder face with good rock. Straight forward climbing to ledge belay. 

Pitch 2) 20m 5.10c: Keep climbing good holds are all there but took me time to find them. Finishes on nice ledge.

Pitch 3) 25m 5.10d: climbs straight up past many bolts similar to last pitch but slightly harder face climbing. Ends at hanging belay.

Pitch 4) 18m 5.11b: Moderate climbing until about half way up by the vertical dikes. Hard moves for about three bolts length and a distinct crux move just above a bolt with very clean falls (don’t desperately push right at this point to the possible looking cracks the rock quality is very bad). Route then rewards you with wet jug climbing to a hanging belay

Pitch 5) 30m 5.11c: Continue straight up towards steeper looking rock. A few cruxes that go easier than the last pitch but more sustained and gets progressively more difficult towards the top. Ends at a hanging belay.

Alternatively to pitch 5 you could begin the traverse pitch of Amptrax by going right.  

Looked possible to continue a scramble upwards I believe I saw a bolt or two but did not opt for that.

Decent. Rappel from top. Can skip pitch 3 anchors on the rap from 4th anchor with 70 meter rope. 

Amptrax wall. Head up same 4th class scramble as if for Amptrax to a shared two bolt belay. Route starts to the right following the bolt line

18 QuickDraws