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Routes in Apmtrax Area

Amptrax T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Apocalipsis S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ebola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 510 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bernabe Fernandez, Miguel Moya
Page Views: 534 total, 22/month
Shared By: Andrey Poletayev on Dec 29, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

The fun direct line just right of the rappel descent from Amptrax, bolted by Bernabe Fernandez. The climbing is varied with short, well-defined cruxes that come at the beginning of pitches 3 and 4, and nice belay locations. A 70m rope is necessary to rappel the route.

p1: 5.7 (4+), start by climbing the left side of a small buttress to a bolts and chain anchor visible from the ground next to a bush.

p2: 5.9 (5+), take the right and more direct of two available bolt lines. You should be going straight up, not up and left. A more technical pitch on better rock. Anchor in a nice alcove 10-15 feet left of a big bush.

p3: 5.10 (6a+), move left and up to get out of the alcove and over the bulge for the crux of the pitch, then continue straight up to another alcove with great technical climbing. The holds are all there if not immediately visible.

p4: 5.10d (6b+), again move left and up out of the alcove, then right and over the bulge to a pinch and lieback rib for a fun and powerful crux sequence. Continue straight up the vertical grey wall as the holds get larger, although there is at some point another wingspan horizontal move.

p5: 5.8 (5), continue straight up as the rock becomes less steep to meet up with Amptrax on the top.

Here is the description in Spanish: bernabefernandez.com/mis-vi…

Location

Starts at a small buttress to the right of Amptrax, with the first pitch's anchors visible from the ground just left of a bush. Up on the wall, there is a large brown cavern above the corner/gully on the right with a bush in it. It is impossible to miss; the route goes just left of this large feature.

Protection

18 quickdraws, all anchors are bolted. Rappel the route with a 70m rope, or do the long walkoff.

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