Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 5 pitches
GPS: -33.737, 150.33549
FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill
Page Views: 47 total · 15/month
Shared By: Clay Thomas on Dec 19, 2025
Admins: Matthew Clawson, Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A slightly adventurous sleeper classic with beautiful golden rock and incredible exposure! 

Pitch 1: there are two options: 

  • For the trad start, go up a double-dihedral at a modest grade (16 / 5.8 ?). This looks really nice.
  • To keep it bolted, head up the face to the left on sharp and dirty holds ("I Don't Climb Wigglies", 21 / 5.11-). This was okay. 

Pitch 2: Pull onto the golden wall and traverse right on crimps. Do a weird move into the dihedral, then up to a ledge. Pull an easy but wild move (reminiscent of "the move" on High Exposure in the Gunks) off the ledge onto the steep easy black wall around right. (22 or 23 / 5.11)

Then, unrope and walk left quite a ways on the sidewalk-style ledge (be careful though since it's sandy and chossy!). Cross the trad corner of "The Illiad" and walk until the next anchor below bolts heading up steep rock. 

Pitch 3: Pull a few steep moves, then get a rest out right. Then crank up and left on a headwall with nice holds. Short pitch. (22 / 5.11) 

Pitch 4: The money pitch. Start with some huge reachy moves (we started a bit right of belay), then continue onto more huge reachy moves. After a desperate stab to a pocket, traverse the hanging roof shelf rightward to a bit of a sting in the tail finish. (24 / 5.12- but felt hard) 

Pitch 5: Continue straight up with two steep moves, then jugs. Belay off trees. (18 / 5.9) 

Walk off by bushwacking back to a short cliff, then traversing that right until you reappear below the lookout bridge. De-proach is not too bad.

Location Suggest change

Starts as the rightmost climb of Iliad Buttress

Protection Suggest change

Bolts (and/or gear for proper 1st pitch)

Photos

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