Ruby Groove

Rated HVS by Alsford/Donnithorne/Sargeant, excellent climbing at a moderate grade, well protected, the most popular climb on the cliff per the authors. 

P1: Start in the right hand crack and exit onto the face left as soon as horizontal gear presents. Belay on a pillar after a lower angle section. 5.7

P2: Step left to gain a right-facing dihedral.  Pull through a roof block (crux) and belay. 5.8

P3: Follow the dihedral direct to the summit overhangs. 5.7

Located about the center of the face on the feature referred to as the South West Face of Adrar Iffran, the upper end of the long mountain wall.  Approach from the village of Agrd Imoul. Across from the first house in the village (on the left) one will find a rock cairn and a dead tree marking a trailhead.  Follow this traversing trail until it turns sharply uphill.  Once level with the route start traverse cross country to the base.  Look for an hourglass-shaped steep pillar on the left of the wall. A break just to its right provides a convenient base, or move right uphill to an excellent ledge to avoid the first 20 feet or so of climbing through a bush. Start between a pillar on the left and a curving crack system on the right.

Descent from the summit is towards the back of the summit plateau, following cairns to a steep section of downclimb in dark rock, using a hidden hand crack.

Standard quartzite rack, nothing big necessary. No fixed gear.