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The Doomsday Device
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in The Superbowl
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Almost My Balls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brain Damaged S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Club Tropicana Coconuts S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Doomsday Device, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glen Le Combo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hallucinogenic Toreador S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Into the Black S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lotter's Desire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Miss McKinley S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Penny Royal Tee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Precision Feather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rude Bushman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sleepless Tad S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Snapdragon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Teen Spirit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tripolactic Fairytailes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | -25.66687, 30.36433 |
| FA: | Marc Efune, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 34 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Oct 15, 2025 |
| Admins: | Michael Sullivan, Liz |
Description
This one is arguably 4 stars, but when I tried it, I got attacked by wasps in the top lieback and had to bail, so I can't bring myself to give it 4/4. The movement and rock are excellent and it's a good, long line.
Start on Miss Mckinley's opening boulder problem, but when you get to the massive ledge at the 5th bolt, continue right (really more straight up) up mellow, blocky terrain to a right facing corner. Fight your way up the corner as the difficulty gradually cranks up to a baffling and powerful lieback sequence getting onto and off of a large, wedged block. I found the crux to be fairly hard for the grade.
After this the difficulty eases as you step right around a roof to a cool liebacking flake. Sadly, my beta ends here (a few bolts below the chains) because that's where the wasps attacked and I lowered off. (they were in the flake crack I was liebacking) It looked pretty mellow above, but there may be a sleeper crux up there?
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