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Elevation: 4,625 ft
GPS: -25.6401, 30.32849
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Shared By: Miyako on May 30, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Michael Sullivan

Description Suggest change

Waterval Boven has a lot to offer : more than 500 sport climbs from 5.4 to 5.14, some excellent trad and for every grades there is many beautiful lines. Climbing is mostly vertical or gently overhanging sometimes with overlaps and roofs. The rock here is is not a juvenile 100,000 year-old limestone, it is a 2.3 billion year old quartzite! On magnificent orange faces you will build endurance, technique, precise footwork and finger strength.

For 15 years Alex and Gustav devoted energy and passion to ease your stay and make sure you get the best of this exceptional location. There expertise is precious. Make sure you contact them. Their office / climbing equipment shop and rental are easily found. It is on the main road in Boven, not even a mile after your right turn from the N4, on the opposite corner of the Shamrock Arms Irish pub.
rocrope.com tel# +27(0)132570363

WHEN TO VISIT

South Africa is in the southern hemisphere so seasons are the opposite of Europe and North America. Keep in mind that the African winter is dry and the summer is wet.

You can enjoy Boven’s climbing almost any time of the year. From april to october there is very little rain (if any) with day temperatures from 45 to 70 and nights from sub zero to 40.

During the summer, it is rarely too hot since most of the crags are in the shade by midday and about 6000 feet above the sea-level. It normally stay under 85 but can be as cool as 60.

Bring a down jacket any time of the year. In mid-summer (late November to early February) you will also need a raincoat. Afternoon thundershowers are frequent but, after the rain, the rock dries very quickly so climbing is possible on most days.

If your schedule is open and you are looking for the best timing, September to early November and late February to end of May offers excellent weather and rain is very unlikely. You will also enjoy the scenery at his best; green and lush!

WHERE TO STAY

Situated few kilometres from the Wonderlands crags, the Roc’n Rope Climber’s Lodge is the original climbers hang-out in Boven. It offers dorms and double rooms at very reasonable price. There, you will have access to an exceptionally well equipped communal kitchen, hot shower, sunny deck with BBQ facilities, living room with fireplace, pool table, and secure parking space.

If you arrive as a group, you may be interested to rent the Orange house just beside the lodge. Also owned by Roc’n Rope, it has 3 bedrooms, 2 with double beds and one with two single. The kitchen is fully equipped, there is a sunny deck with gas BBQ, hot shower, a fireplace in the living room and a secure parking space. Its like home away from home at a very reasonable price.

If you want to stay at walking distance of the Wonderlands crags, you have the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm and camping tranquilitas.com There is a swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and fire sites. You can also rent one of the well equipped chalets or safari-tents. It can be very quiet during the weekdays unless it’s a holiday so if you are alone or want some company the Lodge would be your best option.

An other option is the Tegwan Retreat, halfway between the town and the Wonderlands crags. There is two large cottages sitting in a lush shady garden with a trout stream babbling past. For a big group it works out cheaper than the other self-catering options. Inquire at Roc’n Rope.

OTHER STUFF

There is a ATM in the center of Boven. Withdrawal are limited to 2,000 ZAR.

In town, you can buy the basics in little shops or at the TARS Multisave supermarket. If you want very good fresh red meat, go at the butcher store on the other side of the railway track. Please encourage local economy as much as possible. For fresh products, you will have get to Nelspruit. It is the nearest big town and you will find more than what you can dream of.

On rest day you can hike or mountain bike around, arrange some kayaking or horse-riding, go trout-fishing. (it is trout country) Make sure you reserve some time to visit the world renown Kruger National Park. It is only one and a half hour away. sanparks.co.za/parks/kruger/

If you are in need of some civilization, Shopping Centres, cinemas, Coffee Shops head for Nelspruit. It is an hour drive from Boven. The Riverside Mall has it all.

IMPORTANT LINKS

PDF of Waterval Boven climbing guide
climbing.co.za/download/49865/

Mountain Club of South Africa
cen.mcsa.org.za

South Africa climbing site
climbing.co.za

Getting There Suggest change

From the Johannesburg (also name as Tambo) international airport, take the R21 south. Soon after follow the signs for the N12 east towards eMalahleni (Witbank). It will become the N4. Stay on it for a couple of hours. After the second toll gate, you will see the signs for for Waterval Boven. The right turn brings you to the center of the city and Roc’n Rope will be on your left just after the liquor store.

If you do not have a car, Lowveld Link offers transportation by small bus once a day. You do have to make a reservation. lowveldlink.com You do have to make a reservation. They do not stop at the airport if there is no pick-up. They will leave you at the intersection of the N4 and the main of Boven, about a mile from Roc’n Rope office and the Lodge.

169 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Waterval Boven Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterval Boven

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Grizzly Behr
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Penny Royal Tee
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Snakeskin Safari Suit
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Consistency In Fashion
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Jenga
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Madiba Magic
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
The Day Of The Triffids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Who's your dady
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Bonar
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Precision Feather
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Tool Box
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Endless Summer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Freak-On
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Rude Bushman
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Lotter's Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grizzly Behr Wonderland crags > Baboon Buttress
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Penny Royal Tee Wonderland crags > Superbowl
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Snakeskin Safari Suit Wonderland crags > Hallucinogen Wall
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Consistency In Fashion Wonderland crags > Tranquilitas Crag > Creche
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jenga Wonderland crags > God No! Wall
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Madiba Magic Waterfall crags > last crag of the century
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Day Of The Triffids Wonderland crags > Disciple Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Who's your dady Waterfall crags > last crag of the century
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bonar Restaurant crags > Restaurant crag, The
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Precision Feather Wonderland crags > Superbowl
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tool Box Wonderland crags > God No! Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Endless Summer Waterfall crags > last crag of the century
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Freak-On Wonderland crags > God No! Wall
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Rude Bushman Wonderland crags > Superbowl
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lotter's Desire Wonderland crags > Superbowl
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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