Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 34.77235, -92.29882
FA: JD Borgeson 11/8/2025
Page Views: 101 total · 23/month
Shared By: JD Borgeson on Oct 13, 2025
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Scramble up to the crack, then head straight up and out of the tiered roof system. The crux revolves around a right hand, sidepull pocket and then a left hand crimp in the tier above it.  The route shares a couple of holds with its neighbor to the left after this point. Post-crux, cop a good rest and tackle a final roof by skirting left slightly on good holds and making a big move.

The original method for this route involved a kneebar, a pinch, and a big move to the ticked crimp in the dihedral.  It's around V6/12D this way, but as the route to the left was developed more, some better holds appeared and knocked the crux difficulty down significantly.  The old beta can still be used for a challenge by avoiding the big hold left of the half-pad left-hand crimp.  Check out the photos for details. 

You will probably need to skip the fifth bolt on redpoint, no matter what method you use.  

The anchors for this climb are on the ledge about 3/4 to the top.

Location Suggest change

At the start of the Rotunda.  Between Voodoo Child and Ventilator Blues.  Starts behind the left side of the small boulder.

Protection Suggest change

Permas and Mussies

Photos

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