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Routes in Roadside Wall
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31 Pounds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Airborne Andy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Altered States S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Amnesia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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AWOL S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bonesaw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cafe Noir S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Communication Breakdown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Crush S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Demolition Derby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fingers in a Light Socket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fortress of Solitude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fortress Traverse, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Freshly Squeezed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Grassy Knoll, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kredl's Crumble S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kung Fu Panda S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lemonzinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunchbox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Marlin S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Marshmellow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nemo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Occam's Razor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raptor Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smears for Fears S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snake Eyes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Three D S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Throwing Shade S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torque Wrench S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Triplet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wise Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 45.50271, -65.91633 |
| FA: | Shawn Bethune and Greg Hughes, Oct. 2025 |
| Page Views: | 69 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Hughes on Oct 5, 2025 |
| Admins: | Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes |
Description
Look for black bolt hangers directly right of Amnesia. Stick clip first bolt. Start just down and left of Wise Ways. Climb up and left to the first bolt. Follow 3 more bolts up the steep slab along a rib. Avoid heading left towards the flake on Amnesia (a bit squeezed here but climbs right of holds on Amnesia). Continue straight up as the wall steepens. Surmount a small roof at the fixed draw. Make a rising diagonal hand traverse on steep jugs. Clip the last bolt and hopefully you saved enough gas for the last thin move to the anchor (traversing out left is possible and avoids the final crux). This route is a plumb line from the top of the cliff and is a strong contender for best line on the wall. Very well protected with great movement throughout the whole climb. Some technical thin climbing, some steep jugs and a few long moves between good holds. Originally climbed in the mid 1990's as a top rope route and named Tang by Joe Kennedy due to the orange powdery lichen. It is no longer a bad tasting fake orange crystal drink. It is like freshly squeezed orange juice. It is also a bit tight in a couple places between Amnesia and Wise Ways but is best climbed up its own independent line.
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