Lamb Plight
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 475 ft (144 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.69661, -123.12176 |
| FA: | Luc Kennedy, Louis Kierstead, Evan Lockhart July 2025 |
| Page Views: | 80 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Luc Kennedy on Aug 23, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route follows or... is itself.., the drainage between the Troglodyte Wall and Lantern Wall. Therefore the third pitch is seepy and takes a long long time to fully dry. This route barely gets any direct sunlight except for the final pitch, making it a great option for the summer's heat.
P1 5.7 20m Climb the first pitch of “Primitive Light Form" Climb the left leaning corner, walk left along ledge to belay
P2 5.11b 35m (11 bolts + SR) Step right and climb the bolted line (high first bolt). **Important directional bolt at the ledge at the top** traverse the ledge to the anchor station.
P3 5.11 40m Climb straight up the corner (don’t go out right to the bolt), Optional Gear Anchor once in the V-groove or continue up the corner and up the overhanging crack to an awkward mantle. Continue up the perma seeping crack to an anchor station at the base of the headwall. (Manage your rope drag...)
P4 5.10d 30m Follow the corner up around the arete and into a chimney. Continue up a hand crack which snakes its way through a roof with an awkward crux at its end (Use slings below the roof to prevent the roof crack eating your cams). At the corner’s top, avoid pulling on the rotten stump and embrace the exposure as you mantle the juggy arete. Bolted Anchor.
P5 5.10c 20m Finnish up the 2nd half of “Pernicious Vapours" Fun balancy climbing up the arete in a beautiful setting leads to a rest near the top. build a little gear nest here before busting out an exciting move to the lip. Jugs about a foot back from the lip save the day, making the otherwise intimidating mantle quite tame.
Scramble up into the forest with care to avoid knocking rocks down.
Descent: Follow a short trail uphill and turn right onto the Base Jumper's path. Follow the path (for roughly 15m) steeply up until it flattens out right below a rounded slabby arete. **Do not continue along the trail up the base of this slabby wall**, instead branch off right onto a faint path which traverses east along a wide forest ledge for quite a ways before descending to the base of the wall.
Location
As per Barbarian Walls (Trailhead is 10-15m east of the 2km marker on the Mamquam FSR). Follow the trail up fixed lines to the wall and right along it's base to an obvious flat area with access to the prominent ledge on the Troglodyte Wall. The route starts at the first corner system, roughly 5m uphill.



1 Comment