Type: Trad, 475 ft (144 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 49.69661, -123.12176
FA: Luc Kennedy, Louis Kierstead, Evan Lockhart July 2025
Page Views: 80 total · 14/month
Shared By: Luc Kennedy on Aug 23, 2025
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

This route follows or... is itself.., the drainage between the Troglodyte Wall and Lantern Wall. Therefore the third pitch is seepy and takes a long long time to fully dry. This route barely gets any direct sunlight except for the final pitch, making it a great option for the summer's heat. 

P1 5.7 20m     Climb the first pitch of “Primitive Light Form" Climb the left leaning corner, walk left along ledge to belay

P2 5.11b 35m     (11 bolts + SR) Step right and climb the bolted line (high first bolt). **Important directional bolt at the ledge at the top** traverse the ledge to the anchor station.

P3 5.11 40m     Climb straight up the corner (don’t go out right to the bolt), Optional Gear Anchor once in the V-groove or continue up the corner and up the overhanging crack to an awkward mantle. Continue up the perma seeping crack to an anchor station at the base of the headwall. (Manage your rope drag...)

P4 5.10d 30m     Follow the corner up around the arete and into a chimney.  Continue up a hand crack which snakes its way through a roof with an awkward crux at its end (Use slings below the roof to prevent the roof crack eating your cams). At the corner’s top, avoid pulling on the rotten stump and embrace the exposure as you mantle the juggy arete. Bolted Anchor.

P5 5.10c 20m     Finnish up the 2nd half of “Pernicious Vapours" Fun balancy climbing up the arete in a beautiful setting leads to a rest near the top. build a little gear nest here before busting out an exciting move to the lip. Jugs about a foot back from the lip save the day, making the otherwise intimidating mantle quite tame.

Scramble up into the forest with care to avoid knocking rocks down.

Descent:     Follow a short trail uphill and turn right onto the Base Jumper's path. Follow the path (for roughly 15m) steeply up until it flattens out right below a rounded slabby arete. **Do not continue along the trail up the base of this slabby wall**, instead branch off right onto a faint path which traverses east along a wide forest ledge for quite a ways before descending to the base of the wall. 

Location Suggest change

As per Barbarian Walls (Trailhead is 10-15m east of the 2km marker on the Mamquam FSR). Follow the trail up fixed lines to the wall and right along it's base to an obvious flat area with access to the prominent ledge on the Troglodyte Wall. The route starts at the first corner system, roughly 5m uphill.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack #0.2to #4, Double rack from #0.3 to #3, Triples from #0.75 - #2, 14draws, including extendable draws.

All Belays are bolted

Photos

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