Primitive Light Form

Primitive Light Form 6p 5.10d C0 / 5.12b

P1) 5.7 20m     Climb the left-leaning corner, walk left along ledge to a bolted belay

P2) 5.10b 15m     Slabby climbing the left-leaning diagonal tips crack on small cams and RPs leads to a comfy belay ledge. Bolted anchor.

P3) 5.10d C0 or 5.11b 30m      Climb the delicate slabby crack on RPs, clip the directional bolt with a sling, and prepare for the little roof. Either reach up, plug what you can, and fire it, or use your slings and cams to aid through the roof. (roof crux is quite reachy, likely V3 for taller folks, likely V5-6 for shorter folks. Enjoyable easy crack above leads to a balancy traverse right to a bolted belay station ****Ensure follower does the final move before unclipping the last bolt****

P4) “Hanging Corner” 5.10d C0 or 5.12- 35m     Two awkward mantles lead to a bolt on the arete and better climbing. Go up to the tree, then traverse right below a roof feature on fun holds. Crank up into the hanging corner for a short crux on micro-cams and RPs, or pull on a few pieces to aid through this short section. Exit the corner out right, and climb some easy crack to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. (Manage your rope drag with slings) Bolted Anchor

Original Aid Line Variation 5.10c 25m     Start with the same 2 awkward mantles but stay in the corner leading up into the V groove. Take the diagonal Crack right out to and around the arete ***don't skip the bolt*** Continue traversing right until you reach the obvious tree belay. 10m 5.7     Rejoin the main route: climb some easy crack to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. Bolted Anchor

P5) “Claustrophilia” 5.10d burly! 30m     Tape up for this beauty! (recommended to take only #0.75 - #3 cams along with a few quickdraws/extendable draws on your harness and dangle the rest of your belongings). A short, tight hands crack and the tree help gain the ledge where the cramped shenanigans begin. The upper half is #3s, so bump them with you if you didn’t bring many. Extend the last cam at the very top with a quickdraw to prevent the rope rubbing on an edge while belaying. *Some may want a third or possibly a 4th #3 for this* Bolted Anchor.

P6) 5.9 35m     Step right and climb up the right side of the arete, trudge up the dirty ledge with the help of some trees, skip the bolted Anchor and climb the ramp cracks. Finish up the left-leaning crack. Tree Anchor. 

The rock quality is pretty good, but there is some loose rock in the area. Please take care with what you pull on and place gear behind.

Descent: Follow a short trail uphill and turn right onto the Base Jumper's path. Follow the path steeply up until it flattens out right below a rounded slabby arete (roughly 15m). **Do not continue along the trail up the base of this slabby wall**, instead branch off right onto a faint path which traverses east along a wide forest ledge for quite a ways before descending to the base of the wall. 

Approach: As per Barbarian Walls area (Trailhead roughly 10-15m east of the 2km marker on the Mamquam FSR). Follow the trail up the base of the wall to an obvious flat area with access to the prominent ledge on the Troglodyte Wall. The route starts at the first corner system, roughly 5m uphill.

Standard Rack #0.2to #3, Double rack from #0.4 to #3, optional extra(s) #3, small nuts, RPs. 12draws, including extendable draws. (Bring a #4 if doing the Original Aid line Variation)