Type: Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: -12.73188, -39.72019
FA: Erminio Giannati, Pedro Cunha, Wes Fisher. August 19-21, 2025
Page Views: 48 total · 7/month
Shared By: Wes Thompson on Aug 23, 2025
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Quibunga is a Brazilian indigenous word for crocodile. This was the last climb we opened before leaving Itatim.  Didn't get to clean it as much as I wanted to.   It will clean up to be a very quality route after several ascents.  Trad bolted climb.

P1. 90 feet. 5.11.  Low crux that is sequential.   Start with a small flake for your feet and make some thin face and slab moves for the first two bolts. The rest of this pitch is techy face climbing through undulating rock.

P2. 110 feet. 5.12-.  Angle up and right for a few bolts, then move left on jugs into a shallow dihedral.  Stem and climb the right side through the overhang.  Step left for a rest and then continue to the anchor.

P3. 90 feet. 5.11-.  Up the slab and through the overlap on thin moves.  Work your way up the caneletas(runnels) to the top anchor over the lip.

Location Suggest change

Starts directly right of Chapadocia.  See beta pic for start.

Protection Suggest change

12 draws and anchor slings. Bolts have Bonier rap hangers. 70 meter rope, or use a 60 and rappel one of the nearby climbs that facilitates it.

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