| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.20577, -106.44918 |
| FA: | Marc Beverly and Chris Eckstein (2007) |
| Page Views: | 124 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Mulligan on Jun 3, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Location
The Shockwave pinnacle is located between Mr. Hyde and Estrellita but is mostly separate from either feature. To get there, I went an entire switchback down from the Estrellita exit, then scrambled up the very loose scree mound (it is also possible to scramble down from Estrellita to this scree field). At the top of this, I turned left (north) and thrashed uphill through the very bushy gully until it was capped by a short wall. Shockwave is the southwest-facing pinnacle with visible high bolts and two obvious roofs. Continuing up the gully would also be a way to reach the Mr. Hyde and Dr. Jeckle routes (4th(?) class, very sketchy and not recommended).
The base of Shockwave is quite protected from the wind and gets sun, making it a decent choice for colder afternoons.
Description
P1 - 5.10b, 30m
Start up a loose and bushy ramp immediately left of the blank face and traverse when level with a bolt and a small ledge some 20 feet off the ground (protection seemed non-existent, but it is easier climbing). From the bolt, continue up the discontinuous cracks past a bolt straight into (or slightly right of) a large roof, clipping another bolt on your left. Stem into and power over the roof (physical crux) to another bolt under the next roof. Continue up a discontinuous crack until nearly level with the anchor (avoid dislodging the loose blocks on the right and far left). Place a piece in the widening crack and traverse left to the anchors (mental crux) for a semi-hanging belay.
*Note - There is a hanger-less bolt stud below the P1 anchors, I did not lead to it. TR-ing over to and through the bolt felt much harder than 10b and is likely not the intended line.
P2 - 5.9+, <20m
Follow the bolts up the techy face to the anchors using your high-steps and crimps. This is a fun but short pitch worth the effort
Descent -
Rap the route. A 70m rope made it down from the P1 anchors with about 15-20 feet left in the rope, so a 60m may not get you to the ground without shenanigans. The rappel down from the top of P2 is a clean face. The rappel down from the top of P1 takes you over a roof and positions you about 15 feet left of the route in a brushy gully with lots of loose rocks.
Protection
P1 - 4 bolts and 2-bolt anchor with chains; single rack to 2 inches protects well, but I placed some extra hand-sized cams
P2 - 5 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with chains; I placed nothing on this pitch, but one could probably place smaller cams near the anchors and lower down, albeit the bolts protect the harder sections well.



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