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New Mexico
> Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountains
> La Cueva Canyon…
> Hole in the Wall
Dr Jeckle
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 10
votes
Routes in Hole in the Wall
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Another Pair of New Shoes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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BAC Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Birth of the Cool T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Body Nazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dr Jeckle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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End of My Rope T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Insane Clown Posse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kermit the Frog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Miss Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mouth of a Sailor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Hyde T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Occasional Freshman T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Paydirt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rastafari T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sailor Slang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Senior Prom S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sister Sledge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sophmoric Sandbag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Strike It Rich T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Little Birds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Umbers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Lee Brinckerhoff, Marc Ripper, Bryan Pletta |
| Page Views: | 1,131 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 3, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is the left route on the wall. The first pitch heads up into some thin cracks that peter out just before the belay, crux. The second pitch makes difficult moves off the belay then eases slightly and trends a little to the right back to the rap anchor.
Location
To find this route and Mr. Hyde, head up a gully/slope to the left of the main hole in the wall formation Miss Piggy, contour along a wall on your right up a larger brush choked gully, after a couple of minutes you will see the top of the wall as a bump of rock to your left on the other side of the gully. Cross the gully where the brush thins and you are among a small stand of aspens. Head up a slope towards some giant steps leading to a notch just right of the top of the formation. This should deposit you in a nice small flat area from which you can head up to your right to the top of the formation 20'. This leads to another small flat area where you have to head over some head height rocks, or around them to get to the anchors, which are just below the top but easily visible on a 45 degree slab with a small ledge just below and to the climbers left. This should take about 5 minutes from the base of Miss Piggy. 2 rappels with a 60m rope gets you to the bottom of the wall, or lower in and TR out. Another option exists to head left from the bottom of ??, this will involve some exposed scrambling over a large boulder and a fallen tree leaving you at the top of a very steep dirt chute that you must cross to get to the base of the climbs.
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