Type: Trad, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kris Wild, Eric Wild, May 2025
Page Views: 8 total · 8/month
Shared By: KrisW on May 22, 2025
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

  1. 5.7, 40m, Up the easy corner (watch rope drag), past the treed ledge, and up the steep wall above. Out right to the belay. This is the only pitch you’ll need some gear. 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 1 x #3 Camalot, 3 bolts.

  2. 5.9, 60m, Follow the dyke up the clean stripe to the base of the overhang. Opening well-protected moves are the trickiest, then cruisy slab. 5 bolts

  3. A0, 8m, Climb the aid ladder through the overhang. 8 bolts

  4. 5.10b, 37m, An exciting move left around the corner (hidden jug) accesses the steep slab above. Bolt spacing increases as difficulties ease. 8 bolts 

  5. 5.9, 38m, Up! 6 bolts. The belay at the top of this pitch is where seldom climbed Pineapple Peel crosses. 

  6. 5.10a, 25m, Thin opening moves access an unlikely series of pockets on the steep bulge above. The glacial scoop belay ledge is a very nice place to sit back and relax. 5 bolts

  7. 5.8, 40m, Several metres of thinner slab to get through the bulge. Much low angle padding up a shallow corner and more slab to a scoop. 4 bolts, optional small cam on very easy terrain.

  8. 5.8, 45m, As per usual, the hardest moves are at the beginning, and over quickly. 6 bolts

  9. 5.7, 48m, Straight up then gently right. When the angle kicks back just before the top, you can go left into the finish of Banana Peel, or out right to the last bolt on Slab Alley. Tree belay on Broadway ledge. 6 bolts

Location Suggest change

Approach: Walk the gravel trail along the bottom of the Lower Apron from the parking lot. Either take the little trail to Rambles or Senior Moment, and walk along the base of the slab to the far right end, or walk to the power poles at the top of the hill, and cross the ditch and follow a new trail up right, then back left to the start of pitch 1. You can see it clearly from the trail. If you have trouble with this part, you should probably go to the Smoke Bluffs.

Descent: Standard South Apron option down to the right into the forest. If you need to descend from midway up the route, all stations except the last 2 are rap hangers. If rapping from the top of the P3 aid ladder / roof pitch, rap (gently) straight down to stations on the slab below that are not on the route. 3 raps, all 30m

Protection Suggest change

Mostly bolted. Take 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 1 x #3 Camalot for P1.

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