Interspace Friction
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A0
Type: | Trad, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Kris Wild, Eric Wild, May 2025 |
Page Views: | 8 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | KrisW on May 22, 2025 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
5.7, 40m, Up the easy corner (watch rope drag), past the treed ledge, and up the steep wall above. Out right to the belay. This is the only pitch you’ll need some gear. 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 1 x #3 Camalot, 3 bolts.
5.9, 60m, Follow the dyke up the clean stripe to the base of the overhang. Opening well-protected moves are the trickiest, then cruisy slab. 5 bolts
A0, 8m, Climb the aid ladder through the overhang. 8 bolts
5.10b, 37m, An exciting move left around the corner (hidden jug) accesses the steep slab above. Bolt spacing increases as difficulties ease. 8 bolts
5.9, 38m, Up! 6 bolts. The belay at the top of this pitch is where seldom climbed Pineapple Peel crosses.
5.10a, 25m, Thin opening moves access an unlikely series of pockets on the steep bulge above. The glacial scoop belay ledge is a very nice place to sit back and relax. 5 bolts
5.8, 40m, Several metres of thinner slab to get through the bulge. Much low angle padding up a shallow corner and more slab to a scoop. 4 bolts, optional small cam on very easy terrain.
5.8, 45m, As per usual, the hardest moves are at the beginning, and over quickly. 6 bolts
5.7, 48m, Straight up then gently right. When the angle kicks back just before the top, you can go left into the finish of Banana Peel, or out right to the last bolt on Slab Alley. Tree belay on Broadway ledge. 6 bolts
Location
Approach: Walk the gravel trail along the bottom of the Lower Apron from the parking lot. Either take the little trail to Rambles or Senior Moment, and walk along the base of the slab to the far right end, or walk to the power poles at the top of the hill, and cross the ditch and follow a new trail up right, then back left to the start of pitch 1. You can see it clearly from the trail. If you have trouble with this part, you should probably go to the Smoke Bluffs.
Descent: Standard South Apron option down to the right into the forest. If you need to descend from midway up the route, all stations except the last 2 are rap hangers. If rapping from the top of the P3 aid ladder / roof pitch, rap (gently) straight down to stations on the slab below that are not on the route. 3 raps, all 30m
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