Bad Obsession

An excellent route with mostly great, clean rock.  Named after a Guns 'n Roses song.  Runs through the sizes from tips to chimney, largely in that order.  Recommended to me many years ago by Mike Friedrichs, who said it was one of his favorites in the area (which is saying something).

P1 (5.11+, 50m):  Get a 10-foot warm-up scramble and then commit to a tips lieback that opens up by one cam size every few moves. Climb easier terrain to a panel with a steep 0.75-cam splitter (pods save the day).  After the panel, continue up mostly hands/thin hands, then follow a leftward jog on a jug rail to more hands.  Belay at a bolted anchor (back up with #2/#3) on the face with a small stance, just below a large ledge.  Gear:  #0.2 - #3

P2 (5.10, 37m):  Climb to the ledge and above into the acute corner above via mostly hands.  The crack widens, but a bunch of footholds out left mitigate much of the associated difficulties.  Above the last foothold, it's good to have some O.W. technique, skinny knees, and big cams.  Belay at a bolted stance (back up with #0.4, #0.5) after surmounting an overhang (5.9ish, protected by finger- to hand-sized gear).  Gear:  bring all your #2 - #6 plus a few smaller pieces.

P3 (easy 5th, 20m):  Climb the wideness, which at this point is almost a gully, to a short but fun steeper chimney section, to the top of the feature.  Bolted belay.  Gear: Not much, but bring a range from #0.4 on up.

Descent:  Rappel the route.

Located a few hundred feet left of the giant arch on the left side of a ~30-ft tall pillar that leans against the wall.  Tunnel under the pillar or walk around it and belay at the base of a thin, right facing corner.

1-2x #0.2
2-3x #0.3
2-3x #0.4
2-3x #0.5
3-4x #0.75
3-4x #1
3-4x #2
2-3x #3
3x #4
2x #5
2x #6