Trad Lib

Exactly as the name implies, do your best to improvise some semblance of composed, graceful trad climbing prowess. This means suppressing the terrified whimpers, fight or flight grunts, and full body quaking that is sure to come.

Tackle a stout boulder problem to start. Dirt grovel into the small hueco and, for your personal longevity’s sake, build a gear nest amongst the horrifying choss under the bulge looming above you. Thankfully, a certain obscure hold makes pulling the bulge more bark than bite. Crank over on actual jugs and climb the seam using whatever lichen-coated “holds” you can find while also playing Russian roulette with choss for feet. Transition to the chunky flakes out left once the seam disappears, continue on easier terrain, then find the best moss-covered hold you can to clip the chains. Sit back in your harness and wonder why you do this to yourself.

Stout. Spicy. Chossy. Filthy. Terrifying. A single star for pure movement alone. Classic RRG type 2 fun chossineering. 

Discontinuous crack system with a bulge above a hueco between the two sport lines “Team Wilander” and “Mis-Conception.” Look for the obvious chunky flakes high on the cliff.

Micro gear to #2 size cams. A selection of micro nuts and cams below .2 size are necessary to protect the bulge, or you’re looking at a serious R-rated predicament. Bolted anchors with a steel locker lower-off.