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Routes in The Shire

Audie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buffalo Crickets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bulldozer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Earth-Bound Misfit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
G-Man, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
K.S.B. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miranda Rayne S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Name is Earl S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pee-Wee S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philly Eagle V1 5 PG13
Significant Other S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description [Suggest Change]

A short approach with a handful of easy to moderate routes make this crag a very popular destination. There are also a couple of harder options as well as the open project of Iron Mike, 5.13+ if you're feeling up to it. The Shire also offers some shady climbing options. Be sure to check out the area classics like Miranda Rayne and K.S.B.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From the Sore Heel Hollow parking lot, follow the signage located to the right of the kiosk, across a small stream and up the old road. You will pass Rival Wall and Courtesy Wall on the way.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 206
Audie
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 224
Miranda Rayne
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Bulldozer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
The G-Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 125
K.S.B.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Audie
 206
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Miranda Rayne
 224
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bulldozer
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The G-Man
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
K.S.B.
 125
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Shire »

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Photos

sgauss  
Note that the instructions in the guidebook to this crag are confusing at best, and there is a problem with the topo. The key is to follow the right fork in the trail at the big boulder after the road changes to a foot path. And realize that route number 1, "My Name is Earl", 5.11c, is about 30 feet uphill on a corner from where it's marked, and the topo numbers, at least for routes 1-6 should be numbered 2-7. May 28, 2008
danpierce
Cleveland, OH
danpierce   Cleveland, OH
The guide book offers a good description of how to find this area. Once parked in the Sore Heel area take the trail at the end of the parking lot that goes across the stream. Stay on the trail until it breaks to a foot path. There will be a 'fin shaped boulder' on the left at a fork in the trail. Veer right. Then take the first small trail on your left hand side. The trail hits the wall right in the middle. You have 2 5.10's right in front of you. There is a project and a 5.10d to the right. The rest of the climbs are to the left.

If you take the left side of the trail when you hit the wall and walk past the first face you hit the North 40 wall. Jun 3, 2008
sgauss  
The trail was redone as part of the Trails Day since I was there in May. There was a bunch of work done to block climber trails, make the main branch more obvious, plus the trail nicely switch backs, which should limit erosion. The path leads in towards the base of the wall below the rockhouse. Sep 2, 2008
May have left a grey gri gri near the wooden steps by the 5.7, 8, 9. If you find one let me know! Mar 26, 2018

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