Elevation: 1,034 ft
GPS: 37.652, -83.71 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,093 total · 145/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Sep 9, 2010 with updates from George Grzyb
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

Description

A short approach with a handful of easy to moderate routes make this crag a very popular destination. There are also a couple of harder options as well as the open project of Iron Mike, 5.13+ if you're feeling up to it. The Shire also offers some shady climbing options. Be sure to check out the area classics like Miranda Rayne and K.S.B.

Getting There

From the Sore Heel Hollow parking lot, follow the signage located to the right of the kiosk, across a small stream and up the old road. You will pass Rival Wall and Courtesy Wall on the way.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: The Shire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 236
● Audie
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 260
● Miranda Rayne
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
● Bulldozer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 87
● The G-Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 143
● K.S.B.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Audie
 236
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Miranda Rayne
 260
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Bulldozer
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● The G-Man
 87
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● K.S.B.
 143
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Shire »

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Photos

Climber on KSB in the Red River Gorge
Climber on KSB in the Red River Gorge
 1
Friends in the trees. 5/12/2012
Friends in the trees. 5/12/2012
 1
The Shire in Red River Gorge
The Shire in Red River Gorge
 3

4 Comments

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sgauss
sgauss  
Note that the instructions in the guidebook to this crag are confusing at best, and there is a problem with the topo. The key is to follow the right fork in the trail at the big boulder after the road changes to a foot path. And realize that route number 1, "My Name is Earl", 5.11c, is about 30 feet uphill on a corner from where it's marked, and the topo numbers, at least for routes 1-6 should be numbered 2-7. May 28, 2008
danpierce
Cleveland, OH
danpierce   Cleveland, OH
The guide book offers a good description of how to find this area. Once parked in the Sore Heel area take the trail at the end of the parking lot that goes across the stream. Stay on the trail until it breaks to a foot path. There will be a 'fin shaped boulder' on the left at a fork in the trail. Veer right. Then take the first small trail on your left hand side. The trail hits the wall right in the middle. You have 2 5.10's right in front of you. There is a project and a 5.10d to the right. The rest of the climbs are to the left.

If you take the left side of the trail when you hit the wall and walk past the first face you hit the North 40 wall. Jun 3, 2008
sgauss
sgauss  
The trail was redone as part of the Trails Day since I was there in May. There was a bunch of work done to block climber trails, make the main branch more obvious, plus the trail nicely switch backs, which should limit erosion. The path leads in towards the base of the wall below the rockhouse. Sep 2, 2008
Sean Zhang
Sean Zhang  
May have left a grey gri gri near the wooden steps by the 5.7, 8, 9. If you find one let me know! Mar 26, 2018