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Routes in Lover's Leap
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500 pound bomb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ancient Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Booger Shirt Blast-Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Carotid Dissection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hangover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lazy Monkey, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Wisdom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mike's Prayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Swing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkies and Rosaries S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nothing but Flowers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rattlerouser S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stupendous Traverse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wing Ding S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wodney Wat and the Wee Wittle Warts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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WWC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.45877, -79.13165 |
| FA: | Ben Wyse, Gary Dalton 4-24-25 |
| Page Views: | 66 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Mar 12, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Climb the Monkey Swing dihedral (bring a few small cams and a set of nuts to protect the dihedral) until you can traverse right to clip a bolt. Move right across the face and then up to an anchor near the top of Monkeys and Rosaries. The bottom of the route and the traverse are probably only 5.8, the crux is the last 20 feet of climbing. An excellent route for the leader to belay from the top. There's a nice ledge to stand on while your second follows the climb. You CAN'T clean while lowering/rappelling. If you need to, climb it 2x to get your gear back.
If you like this route, Seneca has a Horrendous Traverse (5.7). mountainproject.com/photo/1…
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