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Routes in Lover's Leap
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500 pound bomb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ancient Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Booger Shirt Blast-Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Carotid Dissection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hangover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lazy Monkey, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Wisdom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mike's Prayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Swing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkies and Rosaries S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nothing but Flowers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rattlerouser S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stupendous Traverse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wing Ding S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wodney Wat and the Wee Wittle Warts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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WWC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 38.45877, -79.13165 |
| FA: | Eddie Begoon, around 1980 |
| Page Views: | 201 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Feb 24, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
This climbs a thin seam in a very shallow, slabby left-facing corner, near the far left end of the wide slab. Climb the seam to the top and traverse right to the 5th bolt. There is a long but easy run-out after the 5th bolt.
Eddie Begoon initially aided this route (5.7A1), then quickly freed the line and rated it 5.9. The description for the route read, "Climb the short crack in the middle of the large friction wall." Given that the route is neither in the middle of the slab nor 5.9, I thought it was an unclimbed line and bolted it. I checked all three guidebook editions to ensure I had the most current edits to route descriptions before adding any "new" routes. The errors notwithstanding, I am sorry for retro-bolting an old line.
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